Am back from an indescribably beautiful trip (in every way) from the peace conference in Italy.  Over 200 global participants from almost every spiritual background looked at signs of change and ways to engage others in what is considered by many to be the 2^nd Axial Age (a focus on global interdependence). Instead of “talking heads”, group workshops covered four areas:  Reconciling with the Other, Transforming Society, Embracing the Earth Family & Rediscovering the Sacred.  I was assigned to the "earth" group. The feeling is our planet has gone too far with “me first” and we’re in the midst of understanding the importance of how connected we are.  Met some remarkably talented people and it was reaffirming to be with so many from every corner of the world working to improve conditions in their area.

 Spent four days in the hills outside Rome at a former monastery which culminated in a trip to Rome and a press conference and reception with municipal and government leaders at the Campidoglio or the Capitol Hill of Rome.  The terrace of the building overlooks the Coliseum and the ruins of the Roman Senate.  Had time to do some sight-seeing so joined a group to visit the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain.  And yes, I tossed in a coin.

Next was a bullet train to Florence, a wrap-up of workshops, a press conference at the Palazzo Vecchio (the Medici palace, complete with the family album in statuary) and sightseeing.  What a magical city!  Narrow streets open up to spacious palazzos with huge churches, museums, & fountains.  Am amazed, however,  there are any Italians left standing – the pedestrians share the narrow streets  with cars, buses & scooters; all driving like they’re in the Grand Prix.  That said, I’d love to go back.

Another highlight was dinner in a 12^th century town in Tuscany called Certaldo,  It’s perched atop a hill so we took the funicular (Italian mechanized mountain goat)  to the top. Nothing in the town’s exterior has changed. We were served a tasty Tuscan dinner in a lovely courtyard.

A little R & R in LA with Erika & a walking tour of downtown LA.  Rode on the Angel Flight and strolled thru some beautiful old buildings.  The Bradley Building was quite a maze of wrought iron staircases with a cute Charlie Chaplin statue seated on a bench.

Back on the road - beginning with Sequoia NP.  Beautiful drive thru the foothills up into the mountains.  Cute little towns, one with a sequoia sized carving of Paul Bunyon out in front.  However, a deli that also specialized in bait didn't sound too appealing. By default, I picked the perfect time to be on the road.  Can’t imagine what this would be like in the summer.

The sequoias are huge.  Instead of large groves (like the redwoods) they’re interspersed among the evergreens so when the sun hits them, they’re a bright, almost iridescent, orange.  Watched a film about the reclamation of the park from a heavily populated assemblage of cabins, homes and hotels to its more natural state.  Lodges are few and small. The rooms were filled so I stayed in a small cabin.  Was warned to take all the food out of the car so Patience wouldn’t be assaulted by a bear.  I keep getting warned and seeing signs – but no bears.  Heard some rustling outside the cabin tho.

Risked a heart attack and climbed up Moro Rock where I met a father and his Jr. High daughter who were taking a “bonding” trip.  Lots of the people I met were visitors from other countries – England, Australia, Japan, Germany – just to name a few.  Figure we’ve got an economic goldmine in the tourist business.

After Sequoia, I took an ear-poppin’ ride down thru Kings Canyon.  As gorgeous as the view is from the top, it’s just as beautiful looking up from the canyon floor.  

On to Yosemite!  Imagined John Muir wandering the trails and feeling so grateful that these parks have been preserved.  Yosemite has put all the “clutter” (hotels, shops, restaurants, even a post office) in one area and left the rest of the park for hiking and some camping.  Visited Yosemite Falls, minus the water so had to take the word of a woman from the Bay area that in the spring it’s spectacular. 

The snowfall from the previous week had been cleared so over the Sierra Nevadas on the Tioga Pass we went. Started out first thing in the morning so there were very few cars – so peaceful.  Amazing to see the plants and trees growing out of the rocks. What a place this must have been millions of years ago when volcanos were poppin’, earthquakes were heaving and glaciers were leaving their trails.

A completely different view on the other side.  We went from mountain lakes and pines to rocky crags and desert.  Since I was in the neighborhood, decided to stop off at Death Valley.  Parker, my friendly bus driver in Glacier, had urged me not to miss it and he was right.  What a contrast – canyons, outcroppings, "sand" lakes in a variety of hues – browns, slate green, adobe, honey beige.  Looked like acres and acres of sand paintings.

Back in LA getting ready for the trip to San Diego.  Will get my granny fix with Raya then take her back to Salt Lake City.  I’ll spend a few days there before coming back to San Diego and beginning my southern route toward Grand Canyon.  We’ll talk later. 

Passed the fruit and firewood inspection so am now allowed to wander thru CA!  First stop was Redwood National Park.  Again, impossible to describe the feeling you have driving and walking thru them.  There’s a strange, powerful, calming, feel to them – so tall, straight, huge.  Best I can come up with is an outdoor cathedral.  The road was gravely & bumpy so it kept me to around 10 mph.  Lots of turn offs and short hiking trails.  The redwoods only grow in this coastal area but they’re survivors; living  almost 2000 years.  Their thick bark protects them from fires, earthquakes and floods and the only things that can bring them down is lightening and old age.   One big guy had a 50’ bolt haircut and was now down to 340’.

Started down the coast and found ANOTHER twisty, turny narrow road that began in a small Victorian town called Ferndale.  What a treasure.  The homes were all beautifully painted in colors to accentuate their detail. The road (they had their nerve putting a center line on it) wound around some beautiful hills.  I came up over a rise and there was the ocean and the Cape Mendocino lighthouse (and three guys preparing to take to their surfboards).  Best surfing waves I saw thru the whole drive down the coast.  Also found out there’s another way to get there as I came crashing out of the hills into a beautiful grove of redwoods.  Drove thru Newton Drury Scenic Parkway and the Avenue of the Giants.  Hard to believe the pathetic looking Eel River had risen to 90’ in ’64 and flooded the Avenue.

Stopped by the Mendocino Botanic Garden and had a lovely conversation with 85 year old, Fred, the mole killer.  Claims that moles are the smartest creatures on the planet by far and he’s up nights trying to out-smart them.  They’re  worm-eaters so he’s devised a diabolical plan to mix poisonous fake pieces of worms in with the real ones.  The plan’s only been in effect for a week so not sure of the results.

I wondered what happened to the surplus boy elks and got my answer.  Seems they join a guys club.  Saw a group of them hanging out together by the side of the road. Reminded me of Garrison Keiller's Norwegian bachelor farmers.

Goodbye redwoods, hello Pacific Ocean coast. CA – 1 is a real adventure.  Up and down, twists and turns all along the coastline.  They say the speed limit is 45 but the curves are 15, 20 and 25.  Figured out why my neck and shoulders were sore – it was from turning the steering wheel.  Took the advice of a fellow I met while stopping for lunch along the coast and arrived at Muir Woods in the morning.  Wanted to pay homage to the person who began our National Park system.  A real inspiration of what a person with a dream can accomplish.

Took a drive thru San Francisco and am expecting a ticket for getting in the wrong lane and not paying the toll on the Golden Gate Bridge.  Since I’d been in SF last year, I felt a comfort with the direction I was going.  Proved to be ill-advised as I missed my turn and ended up on another route.  Not to worry, picked up another highway that took me over to Half Moon Bay.  These folks know how to run a Pumpkin Patch – pumpkins, kiddie rides, mazes and wine tasting.

Saw where our produce comes from – miles and miles of lettuce, artichokes, raspberries, etc.  Saw this cutie when I passed by Moss Landing.  Everyone can live in a castle!

Continued down the coast thru Big Sur – looked like a huge event at Esalan.  Turns out Joan Baez was giving a concert there.  Looked it up and found it’s a human potential institute and spa with lots of environmental links and they were celebrating their 50^th anniversary.  

Stopped to see the elephant seals lounging along the beach flipping sand on themselves.  They’ve made quite a comeback after being almost wiped out but have been protected here and looked pretty comfy.

Next was San Simeon and the Hearst Castle.  Decided to commit a day to taking the three tours they offered.  Said “Hi neighbor” to a couple in a car with MN license plates.  Turns out they were from Australia and were part of the Friendship Forum started by Jimmy Carter.  It’s a “getting to know you” international program where people exchange homes. They’ve been all over the world and offered to put me up when I visit Australia.

Now this is getting silly first the elk and now I hear on the bus ride up to the castle that the tarantulas are in the mood for romance.  We were assured they wouldn't bother us unless we interfered with their courtship.

WR began San Simeon when he was 58 and it’s a time capsule of the 30s and 40s.  He began collecting at 10 yrs old on a trip to Europe with his mother and much of what he bought in Spain and Italy is housed here – even the ceilings and fireplace mantles.  It’s situated on the top of the hill where he camped with his parents (Papa George made loads of money in silver and gold mines.  Gave WR a newspaper to keep him busy).  He gave his architect (Julia Morgan) and construction crew fits because he kept changing the plans – many times after the walls were already up.  He was quite a host but there were rules.  Up by noon for outdoor activities (walks, tennis, horseback riding, etc), limit of two drinks before dinner (personal libations confiscated),all meals had to be taken in the Casa Grande and a movie after dinner(heavy on live-in girlfriend, Marion Davies flicks).  There was also a zoo on the property and the descendants of the zebras now mingle among the cattle on the Hearst Ranch.

After stops in San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara, I’m back on Hwy 1 to LA to meet Erika at Mike and Janey’s.  I’ll spend the next few days getting ready for the peace conference in Italy with a time out to visit with Erika and see The Book of Mormon.   Leave on Friday, the 12^th  for Rome for 4 days and then on to Florence for 3.  Will return to LA on Sunday, the 21st.  I’m very excited about going and even tho I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with the agenda, I’m very happy to be learning what’s being accomplished within the various organizations and grateful that Common Ground in Deerfield made me aware of it .  If you’d like to learn more about it, go to agnt.org.  Don’t plan to take any gadgets with me so my next entry will be when I return –Ciao!

Left the wine country for the Oregon coast – seems like all of the coast is a state park.  Expected to find a lot of traffic but surprisingly, not much.  Remember, I’m in my “go ahead and pass me” mode.  One minute you’re driving along the edge of an ocean cliff and the next you’re in a pine-forested area with twisty, turny curves, then back to the edge of the ocean. 

Things to know about Oregon – you can’t pump your own gas, in fact you can’t even put the credit card in the slot.  The speed limit signs are REALLY big so I figure they mean business.  Seat belt violations are $142 in Roseburg and $97 in Medford.

The the mountains in Oregon are different from the Rockies – the height in the Rockies is exhilarating, heady.  The ones in Oregon are calming – forested, lots of streams with rocky rapids.  Took a short hike to Fall Creek Falls (Falls is pushing it a bit as there are water problems here too).  Beautiful trail tho - up thru moss- covered trees, fern-covered floor and instead of boulders, huge fallen trees or trunks.

Beautiful drive over to Crater Lake along the Umpqua River Valley.  You walk up a small dune at the park and there it is!  The fellow in back of me asked if it was ice – it was so clear and smooth.  Made from a collapsed volcano and has no stream water source

Took a drive thru the woods to Medford along the Rogue River and stopped for sandwich where I met a young man who’s a musician with an Eastern European folk band.  Said they were practicing the next day for a performance on Sunday in Ashland and I was welcome to come.  Did go to Ashland (the Shakespeare Festival capital of Oregon) but somehow messed up on the time so missed him.  Ashland has play performances (Shakespeare and others) from February thru October in three theaters (one an open-air Elizabethan-style).  Passed on seeing one but  Merry Wives of Windsor, Iowa, playing on Sunday, looked like fun. Contented myself to wander around the artsy town and stroll the park.  

There’s more than one wine valley. Drove along the Applegate River and passed the Fiasco Winery (among others).  Should have stopped for a bottle – how bad could it be?  Continued on toward Crescent City CA and took a “shortcut”.  Shortcut, my back-end! Turned out to be what looked like an old logging road through the mountains.  Barely enough room for two cars and luckily I only met one.  I think he was as surprised as I was; wondering what a car with IL plates was doing way up there. Even my GPS didn’t know its name for a while.  Finally came up with BLM-38-7-13. Ten miles up and ten miles down – all at 20 mph or less.  Came off the mountain thru Williams and there were five old guys sitting on the front porch at the general store.  Quite an Americana picture.  On to California!!