The Black Canyon was well worth the visit...staring down 2,000' into a rocky gorge with a river winding through it. There was a huge flat wall the height of two Empire State Buildings with slashes of white rock running through it - magma from a volcano had inserted itself into it. Nice beginning for my ride to Mesa Verde. Noticed a sign along the road warning people not to pick up hitchhikers. All was explained when I drove by the Delta Correctional Facility and figured out who those nice people were, picking up roadside trash.
Went from green mountains to beautiful red canyons. Colorado's got it all! Also saw signs for open range and cattle guards (metal grates) on the roads. Guess the cows can come and go as they please with the canyon walls for fences. Sure would be a disappointment if the only large animals I saw were cows. Heard that's where they winter.
Stopped by a town (rather a former town) named Uravan. It was a bustling uranium mining town in the 50's- complete with homes, parks, stores and medical facilities. Now there's nothing - no remnants at all. Right now a company is doing its best to clean it up.
Went to church in Durango and the speaker was a professor who teaches Native American writing at Ft. Lewis College. Discussed the similarity in values between Indian and Christianity, just different rituals. Unfortunately, Indian children were taken from their parents and forced to attend Christian boarding schools. One chief commented " The white man gave us their religion but forgot to keep some of it for themselves"
Then it was on to Mesa Verde. Another high-wire act! Both in and out of the car. Got to the top of the mesa and then took a tour of Balcony House and Cliff Palace - back to back. Probably not my best idea. Visualized you gathered around, reading the will.
The people built their homes 100' below the top of the mesa into the side of the cliff. They farmed the top of the mesa and lived below it so had to make the trip every day. I walked down to each site and then climbed back up (one way up included a 30'+ ladder along the cliff wall). Amazing construction considering they had no metal tools - just chipped away at the sandstone bricks with stones. It was also pretty clever, because they were shielded from the elements and their community kivas (15" deep round pits) were a constant 55 degrees, winter and summer. The following day I saw Long House, another long descent and ascent.but it included a tram ride afterwards. Saw where the fire in 2000 had taken out a huge area of pines and junipers. Some of the trees were 1,300 years old and will take 100-200 years to restore. On the upside, I met a lovely couple from Lafayette who invited me for a genuine Cajun dinner when I come thru Louisiana.
On to Utah! This sign says it all - tempting but it was 7:30 am. Stopped at the Peach Tree Juice Bar in Montecello for a Dr. Suess breakfast (green eggs & ham). Yummy pesto and spinach scrambled eggs. Sat with a couple around my age from Pueblo, CO who have been biking through CO & UT. Gave me some great tips on what to see. While we were sitting there, a couple of other bikers came in - one with a camera on his helmet!!!
Stopped in Needles(recommended by my biker friends). Lovely spiked formations in the bottom of a canyon. Had the entire place to myself. There was one bench at the top of an outlook so I sat there for a while - so peaceful and quiet.
Patience has been snubbing her nose at most gas stations - getting between 45-55 mpg and even 58 once. Think that was when we did a lot of coasting downhill. Also, she has a new accessory - a sun bonnet. We're a little short of trees in the parks. Keep hearing my mom saying "Park in the shade". Well, there isn't any!
Went to Canyonlands first and sat in on two ranger talks. One was on the geology of the area - at one point this was beachfront property, then came lakes, rivers and erosion. The ribboned layers tell the story of its evolution (do I dare say that word?), Hard to believe that I may be driving on an ancient ocean floor. Another site was Upheaval Dome. Not sure if it was hit by a meteor or a volcanic eruption pushed the salt beds from the ocean floor to the surface. He also talked about the Powell geological expedition which began in WY and went down the Colorado River thru the Grand Canyon. Very impressive, considering Powell had lost an arm in the Civil War.
The second was a volunteer ranger who told us about the dangers of hiking in the canyons due to flash floods and he spoke from personal experience. Even tho it looks dry and dusty, if it starts to rain, haul your a** to higher ground. Don't be fooled by the sprinkles. The gully race "is on" to get to the Colorado River. In fact, the most common cause of death in the canyon is drowning. With my experience, I'd have guessed heart attack. Sadly, this year was NOT the one to go white water rafting as the river is pretty low. Glad I checked that one off in Alaska.
Listened to a peppy ranger from Ladysmith WI give a talk on observing the skies and what the sights may have meant to early inhabitants. It was held at a beautiful campsite in Arches Nation Park.
Another observation - lots of European visitors. In Mesa Verde, the Netherlands were #1. But I think there's a new champion in town. Went to the breakfast room to get some tea and the language I heard most was German. A couple from Italy are taking on a chunk of the country at a time. This year it's the southwest, next year it's Colorado and Montana. One ambitious soul from Estonia is leap-frogging across the country. Was in Chicago two days ago.
Spent a morning in Dead Horse Canyon. Not going to tell you how it got its name; however, it's been the scene for lots of movies that want to look like they're taking place in the Grand Canyon...a couple John Ford westerns and the high flying Thelma & Louise. It's half as long and half as deep as Grand.
I'm on the road to Salt Lake City to visit Raya and April...get to spend some time being grandma. On the way, I passed two semi trucks rolled over, tires up. Not even in the mountain area...a straight stretch of road. Pay attention to the road, Granny!
Passed thru another set of mountains. There's a lengthy area where the cliffs are ribboned with light to dark shades of green. Learned that's probably copper from my ranger-led geology program. Also puffs of red and gold scattered throughout the mountain-side. Fall is coming. Noticed a side turn off called Starvation Road. Wish I'd have kept track of some of the more interesting ones, like No Name, CO.
Will talk to you later when I begin my trip up to Glacier next week.
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