Experienced a bit of a set-back. I ran over my computer!   The answer is, “you start the car and back up”.  The good news is, Tim has a friend who was able to get everything off my old one and while in San Diego for the holidays, we shopped for a new one.  Her name is Lizzy.  Not exactly the Xmas present I planned to get, but feeling very lucky and grateful.  Lots has happened so I’ll work on installments until I catch up.  Have been in SD for 3 weeks and almost all of it was spent playing with my beautiful granddaughter.

My Utah biker friends in Utah were right – the North Rim is beautiful.  Didn’t hurt that I was one of seven cars in the parking lot on its closing day.  Usually, it’s snowed in by the beginning of Nov. and closed by the middle of Oct.  Because the weather has been mild, it stayed open until the Sunday after Thanksgiving.  Walked out to the point of Angel’s Landing and felt almost suspended in mid-air over a chasm.  Couldn’t even see the bottom or the other side of the canyon.  The hotel (which was closed) is perched on the edge of the rim. 

 Spoke with a young woman at the visitor center who had just graduated with her master’s from Penn State in paleontology and biology and had interned at the Park over the summer.  She was volunteering at the North Rim until the closing before moving over to the South Rim (as a volunteer) for the winter.  She was hoping to get a job with the park service- loved the research work and especially giving the visitor talks.  Very passionate about the science of the parks and her part in helping to educate visitors.

Another good scheduling choice! The week after Thanksgiving is pretty quiet at the South Rim. Began by reserving a couple of nights and ended up extending it to four- there’s so much to see and do. I was fearful my expectations might have outrun the reality of seeing it.  No such problem.  It truly is spectacular – from every perspective.  The interesting thing is the beauty changes with the time of day and how the sunlight plays with the colors and shadows.  Did however, come to a conclusion. I was glad to be doing this at this time of my life.  If I’d been younger, some fool would have talked me into putting 60# of gear on my back in the middle of a 110 degree summer and climb down the cliffs only to camp out with a bunch of pink rattlesnakes. Flirted with the idea of the mule ride down, though.  Had dinner with a veterinarian from Austria who was studying holistic treatments in FL after completing four months in China.  She drove all the way here to ride the mules to the bottom and stay at Phantom Ranch. Made it sound pretty appealing but would have required another 2 night stay.

There are several types of accommodations (besides RV and camping) – from the historic (and very expensive) El Tovar to share-a-bath dorms.  I got some good advice about the Bright Angel and my cozy cabin was also on the route to the mule corral.

Did lots of walking along the edge of the south rim.  It’s quite a hike (from my cabin to Hermit’s Rest, it was 9 miles) and most of the time I was the lone person on the trail.  Did meet up with an unusual fellow traveler.  We just stared at each other for a few seconds, then he trotted off. Heard the big-horns aren’t usually up on the rim, preferring the cliffs below instead.

 Went to every ranger program – am now fluent in history, early native culture, geology, plants, caves & animals.  I’m so impressed with their knowledge, enthusiasm and presentation skills.  All the programs were terrific but two stood out.  One was a historical impersonation of Capt. John Hance, one of the early miners-turned-hotel owners.  His “shtick” was story-telling and tall tales. The ranger (in costume) gave a full hour of one outrageous story after another – including how he hitched a ride on a buffalo in a stampede in Texas and ending up in the Grand Canyon.

The following nite was a program on the re-introduction of the CA condors to the area.  At one time there were 24 and very close to extinction.  Those 24 were captured, enticed into a romantic mood and then had their eggs swiped.  When the eggs hatched, a mama condor “hand puppet” fed them so they wouldn’t imprint on humans.  They’ve been released in CA and AZ and some have made their home in the Canyon.  One of the main reasons for their demise was lead poisoning.  Since they're nature’s garbage disposal, they were ingesting the lead buckshot left in the carcasses of animals shot by hunters.  The forest service is working with hunting organizations to encourage the use of copper shot and it’s working. There are now over 200 and fewer are dying.

On my way out, I stopped off at the Desert View Watchtower designed by Mary Colter – a Minnesota-born architect who managed to break thru the male-dominated field to become a specialist in Pueblo-style buildings. While working for Fred Harvey (the builder of El Tovar), she designed the interior of the hotel as well as other buildings on the park grounds.As imposing as the exterior tower is, the climb up the circular stairs to the top is lined with beautiful native-painted designs and sculptures.  

Will stop here, get this up and work on the next installment.  Wishing everyone a new year of peace and lots of good surprises.