And now for something completely different.  Gators, crocs and birds…the Everglades has it all.  Went from elv.12,000 ft. in the Rockies to 3 ft. at Rock River Pass.

Drove down from St. Augustine and stayed in Florida City.  The lodge at the Flamingo entrance was taken out by Wilma so it was an 80 mile round trip to the visitor center.  Passed a trail called Snake Bight and made a mental note to avoid that one, only to find myself walking down it after some young fresh-faced ranger talked me into it.  Looked up regularly to see if any of those limbs were moving.  There are the remnants of a canal on one side of the path dug by Henry Flagler’s company.  Thankfully it was a flop as he couldn’t figure out a way to make any money off it or I doubt the Everglades would exist as a park.

They were so much more than I expected.  Went on a ranger led walk that walked us right into the ocean where we used nets to collect sea creatures.  When we’d safely stowed them in containers, he explained what each was and how they fit into the cycle of ocean life.  He wandered out waist deep and came up with a large blue crab.  Would have made a tasty snack but had to be released.  In fact, there’s a $5,000 fine for feeding the animals and it makes good sense when dealing with crocs and gators.  If they came to expect food from an extended hand, what’s to prevent them from making a mistake?

Had a round-about plan for the river ride.  Booked it for the same time as the manatee talk so changed a time for afterwards.  Then realized I’d actually booked the Florida Bay ride so changed it again to the swamp tour.  The reservationist was reluctant, but turned out to be a good sport.  This is the only area where climate conditions permit crocs and gators to live together.  Crocs can’t handle the colder weather while gators can self-regulate their body temps by either staying in the water or sunning themselves on the shore.  Crocs aren’t that smart.  Also got another look at a manatee that was swimming around a catamaran parked at the dock. They’re the friendly giants (up to 6000 lbs.) who have found a sanctuary in the glades.  Lots have been the victims of fatal outboard motor propeller injuries.

Saw several ospry nests in the area.  They mate for life and the VERY considerate males, catch a fish and clean it  and remove it's head before bringing it home to mom. On our boatride,  we happened to catch sight of one  in a shoreline tree. 

There are several walking paths but the most spectacular is a path & boardwalk area called the Anhinga Trail, named after one of the more interesting birds.  It doesn’t have the waxy protection of most water birds so after it spends time in the water, it has to come out, sit on a branch and spread its wings to dry off.  The Trail has some of everything – buzzards, vultures, herons, egrets, turtles, gators, crocs and more.  All living comfortably in an area with people walking thru.  They’ll even crawl up out of the swamp area and rest on the walking paths.  Note the cutie in back of me.  Gators don’t eat in the winter – and when they do begin, it’s every 7-10 days.  Not nearly as scary as their press would have you think.  They’re pretty damn lazy – usually wait for lunch to walk by.

There's also a path that has the most unusual, beautiful tree snails.  One of the rangers showed me a picture he took so I hot-footed it over to see for myself.  Just found one but it was worth it.

Next on the schedule was a trip down the Keys. Unfortunately, I chose a Saturday (the days of the week sorta run together for me) and it was pretty busy with lots of “no vacancy” signs.  Lucked out and found a lovely motel in Marathon run by the friendliest woman, her daughter and even occasionally, her granddaughter.  It even came with a slice of Key Lime Pie. 

Went to the most southern UU church on Sunday and heard a sermon on the Twilight Zone (be open to the unexpected).  That seems to cover the past 6 months for me. Hopped on the rubber-tired choo-choo and saw and listened to the history of Key West.  Besides being a huge art colony (and home to Hemmingway (and his 6-toed cats), Capote and others), there was another story I hadn’t heard.  In the 80’s, the federal government closed Highway 1 looking for illegal immigrants from Cuba and drug smugglers.  It also cut off the lifeline of tourist business to Key West.  The Conch Republic of Key West was formed, seceded from the US, attacked a naval ship with stale Cuban bread, surrendered, then demanded $1billion in war relief and reparations.  The government opened Highway 1 but denied them the cash.


Roosters everywhere!  Thought it was kinda quaint until I showed up early the following morning for my trip to Dry Tortugas and heard the crowing din.

Dry Tortugas is an National Park island 70 miles off the coast of Key West.  It’s a 2 ½ hour ferry ride where I met Cindy Shank, a retired kindergarten teacher from AZ who turned her love of photography into a series of children’s books on the sheep trails in AZ.  One is about the sheep and the others cover the border collies, burros and people on the trail.  She’s considering one on the mules in the Grand Canyon. 

We teamed up to take a tour of the Fort which was built as protection but was never completed and never fired a shot.  It was ultimately used to house Civil War prisoners and experienced a big outbreak of Yellow Fever.  One of the prisoners, Dr. Mudd (who treated John Wilkes Booth) deduced that standing water was a breeding ground for the mosquito spreading the disease.

Also took the plunge and donned my first snorkeling gear. Cindy had done it before but was happy for the company. After getting my fins tangled and falling on my kiester, I decided floating would work best.  It was wonderful.  Not too many fish, but loved floating above the coral.  There’s a picture of me in full regalia but it’s something only my children could love (or maybe not).

 Left the Keys and spent three days in Plantation with a dear friend from home. Felt good to relax, catch up, take morning walks and have some tasty meals within walking distance of her condo.  Took a leisurely afternoon stroll thru the Morikami Japanese Museum and Gardens.  Beautiful setting of sand sculpture, rock & bamboo gardens, ponds and falls. Also saw my first armadillo!

Back in the Everglades.  This time along the southern coast.  Took the Shark Valley tram ride and climbed the observation tower.  Unfortunately, it was raining so headed for the Gulf coast. Passed the country’s smallest post office on the way which serves 3 Florida counties.

Was going to bypass the 10,000 Island center but my curiosity got the best of me and drove down from Ft. Myers. Climbed another tower and also   listened to a ranger talk on the snakes and gators in the Glades.  The boas have gotten a lot of publicity lately.  They’ve been released by owners who bought them as pets only to watch them grow into an unmanageable size.  A fairly unsuccessful hunt was held which netted only about 50, that plus the destruction to the area by hunters who wouldn’t know a boa from a coat hanger.  Females have been captured, outfitted with radio tags then sent out to entice the surrounding males during mating season.  She’s then recaptured and sent out again the following year. Sort of a boa “hooker”. 

 On an intuitive flash, I pulled up the White Pages to see if a friend and former neighbor was still in the home she moved to in the Orlando area almost 30 years ago.  I think she was as surprised to hear from me as I was to find her.  Another lovely break, catching up and relaxing.  Got to see the old downtown Orlando when we lunched in the Church Street area.  

Left for Homosassa Springs to see more manatees at the state park. The weather was too warm so most had wandered off to the Gulf.  It’s the old fish story, “you should have been here last week; there were hundreds!” They also have native wildlife exhibits, except for one very large hippo named Lou.  The previous owners had an exotic wildlife park on the property and the state was able to place the other animals in zoos and preserves but found it very difficult to find a home for a 6,000 lb. hippo.  The school children of Florida petitioned the governor to make him a citizen of Florida which allowed him to stay.

On the boat ride to the park entrance we saw two water moccasins swimming in the water.  Our volunteer driver warned us that should one drop out of the trees; someone should be prepared to drive because he was jumping overboard.  

I loved driving in central Florida.  Tangles of spreading oaks covered with Spanish moss, tropical plants, cypress, pines, swamps, canals, rivers & lakes. Am sure once mosquito season rolled around I’d feel a tad differently but now, it’s beautiful.

Had a “what the” moment when I passed some cattle outside Palatka.  Made a U-turn and went back to discover a portable BBQ place across the road from them.  Best ribs ever…and lots of them.  Stopped along the St. John River on Hwy 13 at a picnic area and feasted (BTW - they're Watusi cattle from Africa)

It’s raining in Jacksonville and up the coast so am cooling my heels and getting this (and my taxes) done and then will head toward Georgia.  Visited the Cummer Museum and Gardens yesterday.  Loved looking at the exhibit by a Florida artist featuring scenes from the Everglades. It also has a 200 yr. old oak that has made itselt quite at home in the garden.  Jacksonville is also home to the Navy’s Blue Angels.  Found Moccasin Slough, a park near my motel that has designated "old people" exercise stations along a walking path.  Just try standing on one leg for 15 seconds

Took a drive along the Mississippi Gulf coastline.  Very easy to understand how devastating it was to the residents when the oil spill happened.  The beach is almost pure white and wide open most of the width of the state.  Lots of casinos tho, across the street near Biloxi.  Stopped by a Frank Gehry designed art museum but they were in the midst of arranging an exhibit so had to cut my visit short. Lots of water, lots of bridges, lots of boats. 

 Off to Alabama and a couple of lovely surprises.  First, saw a sign that said “FERRY”.  Had no idea where it went but decided to fly by the seat of my pants, made a right turn and found myself crossing a bridge to beautiful Dauphin Island. Took the ferry (along with other Midwesterners – including 4 from Champaign) to Ft. Morgan, just a bit west of Gulf Shores.  Decided to take some R & R (me and every other mid-westerner over 65).  Got some good advice on places to see (and eat) from my sister’s sister-in-law who vacations here.  I also re-confirmed my lack of interest in walking along beaches, although I love driving by them. I took some woodland walks in wildlife refuges - Bon Secour being one.  There I saw the beach area where the sea turtles come ashore with signs warning against any type of lighting during the hatching time.  Babies become disoriented by the lights and can’t find the ocean and volunteers are recruited to help.  Also, first time I’ve seen “nudity” listed as a no-no.

Stopped at the Port St. Joe McDonald’s for an iced tea.  They’d lost the knife so I couldn’t have lemon in it.  She said knives were not allowed in the restaurant and they’d been sneaking one in but it had disappeared.  A strange and rather unsettling story

Patience was due for her 25,000 mile check-up so decided to begin the drive to Tallahassee.  Took the beach route for a while and then drove up thru the Apalachicola Wildlife Refuge which turned into the Apalachicola National Forest. Lots of rolling hills. Passed Tate’s Hell State Forest. The legend is the old codger went looking for a panther that was killing his livestock, got stuck in the swamp, bitten by a snake, had to drink murky water and when he emerged, said he’d just come from hell

The town of Apalachicola was quite a surprise – it was once a huge port and is now a quaint fishing/tourist place with lots of restored old homes with a scenic and quiet drive along the coastal area.

Arrived in Tallahassee and got a recommendation to see the Maclay Gardens.  It was once a winter retreat that was donated to the state for a park.  Beautiful walkways with Spanish moss covered trees and camellias blooming.  Was told this area was “really’ Southern Georgia.  All the states I’ve visited have had surprises from how I’d envisioned them.

Another recommendation was the Wakulla Springs State Park where I took their boat ride and saw my first manatee. 

On to St. Augustine!  Stopped at a tourist info office and for a 1 hour presentation, I could get a trolley pass, 4 museum passes and a $25 Visa gift card.  Raise your hand if you’ve heard this before and could have told me it would take almost 2 hours to untangle myself from a “chance of a lifetime” vacation club offer.

Anyway – I wandered thru the Castillo de San Marcos. It’s had several defensive uses. One story has the British who forgot to call the Weather Channel so troops and cannons slogged thru the swamps and tried to attack during hurricane season. Didn't work out so well.

Took the trolley tour and heard the story of the back and forths among the French, English and Spanish who were laying claim to Florida. Go ahead and throw in some pirates. The French got there first, closely followed by the Spanish and Ponce de Leon and his fountain search.  In one particularly ugly situation, the French Huguenots could have escaped execution by the Spanish had they copped to being Catholic. St. Augustine is a bit miffed because they’re REALLY the first European new world settlement.

Toured Flagler College (formerly the Flagler Hotel).  Henry got the idea from the fellow across the street (who built a smaller replica of the Alhambra) to build his hotel with poured concrete walls.  Henry repaid his friend’s kindness by refusing to allow furnishings for HIS hotel to be shipped on Flagler’s railroad.  The hotel went broke.The Flagler is a beautiful building with huge decorative brick towers that stored water, Tiffany glass windows in the dining room and lovely furnishings. Pretty fancy place for college students.

Next, the Everglades!

What a treasure!  St. Francisville is a beautiful little town with an historic district lined with 146 restored buildings on the National Historic Register. Loved the resting monk.  Not sure if it was St Francis cause it's missing birds. On my walking tour, I met a photographer in the Catholic Church who was helping with the Pilgrimage brochure to be held in a couple of months.  Quite a jack-of-all-trades.  He also plays in a band that entertains in local spots. Gave me some great advice on what to see in the area and I made it a point to see his photos which were exhibited in a local restaurant.

Visited plantations – the first was Oakley House, where James Audubon spent 3 ½ months drawing his birds.  He was hired to tutor the owner’s daughter, which he did in the morning and then spent his afternoons working on his drawings.  One piece of information that’s often omitted is he shot the birds, posed them and drew quickly (seems the colors begin to fade after a few hours).  My young tour guide had just graduated with a psychology degree and was having trouble finding a full time job.  This was only part-time but he’d done his homework and was a very knowledgeable and personable guide. For example, this interesting piece of information.  Lots of entertaining took place at that time but there were discreet signals to let visitors know it was time to go home. First their food was served on cold plates.  If that didn’t work, the pineapple do-dads (my term for the hospitality symbol) were removed from their bed posts and finally, salt and sugar were removed from the table. By that time, the message should have sunk in. 

Next was Rosedown.  Gardens were the main attraction for this house.  Acres of them- Italian-designed with flowers, fountains and statuary.  The owner’s wife insisted the gardens be planned and the tree-lined entrance be put in place before the house was built.  Then on to Greenwood.

Greenwood has a very interesting history. I was the only visitor so the guide & I sat on a sofa and she related the story. The home, like all these plantations, was built with Spanish Land Grants.  The conditions were:  you had to live in the home for 4 years, plant a crop (which was taxed by the Spanish government) and join the Catholic Church.  Many of the owners were transplanted Tories fleeing the Revolutionary War so Catholic (in name only) was pretty common.  Greenwood was a huge Greek revival home built with incredibly sturdy brick columns.  After the Civil War, it fell into disrepair and was eventually bought and restored only to be burned to the ground by a lightning strike in 1960.  The columns were the only things that remained.  Again, the property was bought and the exterior was rebuilt, using its original plans.  The owners were then approached by a Canadian film company who were doing a documentary on French settlers in Louisiana and offered to refurbish the house, if they could use it (right down to the wallpaper). Then another stroke of luck – the filmmakers of “The North and the South” offered to add the reproduction furnishings.  The current owners (the son of those who rebuilt it) live in the third story addition (that tiny box on top) to the house and have opened it for tours.

Headed for Baton Rouge and noticed there was some excitement going on.  Had no idea I’d dropped in on a day of one of the Mardi Gras parades.  Parked Patience in a spot along the parade route and then set out to see some of the downtown, especially the old capitol building.  Looks like an old French castle with a beautiful multi-colored glass ceiling.  Took a walk along the Mississippi and returned to my parade-watching neighbors

One couple was from St. Francisville and the other family, from Baton Rouge. They’d brought a King cake so we feasted and begged for beads. The floats were huge and lovely and the bands smartly stepped. Found a flaw in the GPS system while trying to find my motel.  When the police have closed most of the streets, there’s lots of frustrating “recalculating”.

Stopped in Lafayette and happened on the Acadian “Courir de Mardi Gras”. Lots of singing and dancing Cajun-style in a recreated Acadian village.  Missed out on the “chasing of the chickens” for the gumbo but spent the afternoon listening to the music and touring the village. For the festivities, each of the homes had someone in period clothing describing the life of the Acadians in LA.  Quite an adjustment from the weather in Nova Scotia.

The following day, I signed up for an eco-swamp tour with a zoology/botany grad who also volunteers with the Nature Conservancy.  Pulled up next to a number of alligators (happy to hear they don’t eat during the winter months), sad to hear the #1 predator of baby alligators are the big gators.  We skimmed thru the bayou in a Cajun crawfish skiff and luckily, got to see the egret and heron nesting site which closes to boat traffic on Feb. 15 to keep the nursery quiet. Two young adventurers from Brazil were also on the tour and working their way toward New Orleans for the Super Bowl & Mardi Gras festivities.

I took another scenic route to Houma. Stopped in St. Martinville to tour the Evangeline exhibit.  The story is, a judge from here was a friend of Longfellow’s at Harvard and told him the sad story of the Acadian’s forced exile from Nova Scotia by the British.  A large oak along the Atchafalaya River has been designated as the meeting place for the legendary Evangeline and Gabriel.  There’s also a Creole plantation with an adjoining Acadian farm set aside by Louisiana to show how they lived side by side. Farming and raising cattle was the niche these northern exiles carved out for themselves.  Huge disparity in living conditions but nonetheless, peaceful.

After wandering the segmented streets of Houma (name changes, number changes, tunnels and bridges) I landed at the Ramada Inn.  I’ve stayed in some very friendly places but this one wins the hospitality award.  The staff hosted a cookout for guests that evening & I met some lovely people.  A couple of salesmen gave me some tips on places to see and a previous Krewe Captain of one of the 8 or 9 parades held in Houma told me about how a parade is organized.  His group (Hercules) is comprised of all men and they begin planning the next parade immediately following the current one.  They are also very committed to service projects in the community during the year.  Gave me some beautiful mementos of his Krewe.

My salesmen friends and my instincts said stay away from New Orleans during the Super Bowl and Mardi Gras festivities so I headed north  above Lake Pontchartrain.  Some beautiful homes along the lake.  Stopped in Ponchatoula and bought yummy strawberries from a roadside stand.  Seemed strange to have strawberry season the end of January.  

Streaked (probably not the best description) across most of western Texas and spent a couple of days in San Antonio. My longest day in the car. Was here for a conference a few years ago but it was July and very hot so didn’t venture too far away from the air-conditioned hotel.  Temp now is in the mid-60s so perfect walking weather.  Repeated the boat ride and strolled along the River Walk.  Also went over to King William, the old German neighborhood and toured one of the homes. Big difference from the Spanish-influenced architecture.

As I was coming thru Houston, was listening to a conversation about gun control just as the news broke about a shooting at a small college near there.  Police were everywhere. Lord help us.

Crossed over into Louisiana.  What a difference in terrain.  Ended up on the Gulf Coast Highway (part of the Creole Nature Trail) for a lovely ride along the water. Houses are up on 15-20’ stilts.  The area has been battered by 2 hurricanes but undaunted, they always rebuild. Sorta strange to see a Victorian, complete with turrets up on high heels.  What a change in feeling to get off the interstate and drive along the back roads – so much more relaxing.  Gulf waters are lapping the shoreline about 30’ from the road. Patience got her first ferry ride (and saw 2 porpoises) when we landed in small town called Cameron and stayed overnite at the lone motel.

 The following day we got back on the Trail and had to ride the ferry again.  This time there was a $1 charge.  Woman attendant said "we let you in for free but charge you to leave". So much different from the dry area I left – lots of water, reeds and birds – egrets and herons.  Drove into the Sabine National Wildlife Refuge which means the critters are safe unless they try to cross the road.  Actually, there are fishing and hunting areas set aside in it.

Met Bobby & Betty, two octogenarians from central Louisiana celebrating their 49^th anniversary by fishing and crabbing in the Sabine.  It’s an annual tradition and they were delightful. After watching her haul in turkey necks with crabs attached, she asked if I’d like to try it. Quite an experience to patiently pull them in and then convince them to hop in the bucket. 

Stopped in Lake Charles to see the collection of costumes at the Mardi Gras Museum.  Heard the story from a 6’ alligator named Devereaux.  The celebration began slowly in the late 1700’s and expanded exponentially until it became the ribald revelry it is today, lasting 3 weeks in some places. The costumes in the collection were beautiful – lots of pizzazz and sparkle – and each year the Krewe (crew or club) changes its theme and they start all over again.

My crabbing friend said I shouldn’t miss the northern part of LA so off I headed to Alexandria. (Got stopped on the way in Iowa, LA for crossing a white line to make a right turn.  Apparently, it’s a no-no).  My friend didn’t mention there was a pet show in Alexandria & I was lucky to get one of the last motel rooms in the city.  Not only that, when the people next door went out to dinner, they left a very unhappy pooch behind.  Also sadly, the two museums I wanted to see (the LA Political Museum and the Delta Music Museum) were both closed so I headed up to Natchez, MS.

Took a walking tour of the downtown area – some lovely homes and buildings but also some very neglected ones.  One beauty was the Eola Hotel whose interior had been renovated to its former elegance.  Also took a walk along the Mississippi and saw a riverboat. Met a woman from Baton Rouge in the motel parking lot and she said not to miss St. Francisville.  Made that my next stop.