And
now for something completely different.
Gators, crocs and birds…the Everglades has it all. Went from elv.12,000 ft. in the Rockies to 3
ft. at Rock River Pass.
Drove
down from St. Augustine and stayed in Florida City. The lodge at the Flamingo entrance was taken
out by Wilma so it was an 80 mile round trip to the visitor center. Passed a trail called Snake Bight and made a
mental note to avoid that one, only to find myself walking down it after some
young fresh-faced ranger talked me into it.
Looked up regularly to see if any of those limbs were moving. There are the remnants of a canal on one side
of the path dug by Henry Flagler’s company.
Thankfully it was a flop as he couldn’t figure out a way to make any
money off it or I doubt the Everglades would exist as a park.
They were so much more than I expected.
Went on a ranger led walk that walked us right into the ocean where we used
nets to collect sea creatures. When we’d
safely stowed them in containers, he explained what each was and how they fit
into the cycle of ocean life. He
wandered out waist deep and came up with a large blue crab. Would have made a tasty snack but had to be
released. In fact, there’s a $5,000 fine
for feeding the animals and it makes good sense when dealing with crocs and
gators. If they came to expect food from
an extended hand, what’s to prevent them from making a mistake?
Had a round-about plan for the river ride.
Booked it for the same time as the manatee talk so changed a time for
afterwards. Then realized I’d actually
booked the Florida Bay ride so changed it again to the swamp tour. The reservationist was reluctant, but turned
out to be a good sport. This is the only
area where climate conditions permit crocs and gators to live together. Crocs can’t handle the colder weather while gators
can self-regulate their body temps by either staying in the water or sunning
themselves on the shore. Crocs aren’t
that smart. Also got another look at a
manatee that was swimming around a catamaran parked at the dock. They’re the
friendly giants (up to 6000 lbs.) who have found a sanctuary in the
glades. Lots have been the victims of
fatal outboard motor propeller injuries.
Saw several ospry nests in the area. They mate for life and the VERY considerate males, catch a fish and clean it and remove it's head before bringing it home to mom. On our boatride, we happened to catch sight of one in a shoreline tree.
There
are several walking paths but the most spectacular is a path & boardwalk
area called the Anhinga Trail, named after one of the more interesting
birds. It doesn’t have the waxy
protection of most water birds so after it spends time in the water, it has to
come out, sit on a branch and spread its wings to dry off. The Trail has some of everything – buzzards,
vultures, herons, egrets, turtles, gators, crocs and more. All living comfortably in an area with people
walking thru. They’ll even crawl up out
of the swamp area and rest on the walking paths. Note the cutie in back of me. Gators don’t eat in the winter – and when
they do begin, it’s every 7-10 days. Not
nearly as scary as their press would have you think. They’re pretty damn lazy – usually wait for
lunch to walk by.
There's also a path that has the most unusual, beautiful tree snails. One of the rangers showed me a picture he took so I hot-footed it over to see for myself. Just found one but it was worth it.
Next
on the schedule was a trip down the Keys. Unfortunately, I chose a Saturday
(the days of the week sorta run together for me) and it was pretty busy with
lots of “no vacancy” signs. Lucked out
and found a lovely motel in Marathon run by the friendliest woman, her daughter
and even occasionally, her granddaughter.
It even came with a slice of Key Lime Pie.
Went
to the most southern UU church on Sunday and heard a sermon on the Twilight
Zone (be open to the unexpected). That
seems to cover the past 6 months for me. Hopped on the rubber-tired choo-choo
and saw and listened to the history of Key West. Besides being a huge art colony (and home to
Hemmingway (and his 6-toed cats), Capote and others), there was another story I hadn’t heard. In the 80’s, the federal government closed Highway
1 looking for illegal immigrants from Cuba and drug smugglers. It also cut off the lifeline of tourist
business to Key West. The Conch Republic
of Key West was formed, seceded from the US, attacked a naval ship with stale
Cuban bread, surrendered, then demanded $1billion in war relief and
reparations. The government opened
Highway 1 but denied them the cash.
Roosters everywhere! Thought it was kinda quaint until I showed up early the following morning for my trip to Dry Tortugas and heard the crowing din.
Roosters everywhere! Thought it was kinda quaint until I showed up early the following morning for my trip to Dry Tortugas and heard the crowing din.
Dry Tortugas is an National Park island 70 miles off the coast of
Key West. It’s a 2 ½ hour ferry ride
where I met Cindy Shank, a retired kindergarten teacher from AZ who turned her
love of photography into a series of children’s books on the sheep trails in
AZ. One is about the sheep and the
others cover the border collies, burros and people on the trail. She’s considering one on the mules in the Grand
Canyon.
We
teamed up to take a tour of the Fort which was built as protection but was
never completed and never fired a shot.
It was ultimately used to house Civil War prisoners and experienced a
big outbreak of Yellow Fever. One of the
prisoners, Dr. Mudd (who treated John Wilkes Booth) deduced that standing water
was a breeding ground for the mosquito spreading the disease.
Also
took the plunge and donned my first snorkeling gear. Cindy had done it before
but was happy for the company. After getting my fins tangled and falling on my
kiester, I decided floating would work best.
It was wonderful. Not too many
fish, but loved floating above the coral.
There’s a picture of me in full regalia but it’s something only my
children could love (or maybe not).
Back
in the Everglades. This time along the
southern coast. Took the Shark Valley
tram ride and climbed the observation tower.
Unfortunately, it was raining so headed for the Gulf coast. Passed the
country’s smallest post office on the way which serves 3 Florida counties.
Was
going to bypass the 10,000 Island center but my curiosity got the best of me
and drove down from Ft. Myers. Climbed another tower and also listened
to a ranger talk on the snakes and gators in the Glades. The boas have gotten a lot of publicity
lately. They’ve been released by owners
who bought them as pets only to watch them grow into an unmanageable size. A fairly unsuccessful hunt was held which
netted only about 50, that plus the destruction to the area by hunters who
wouldn’t know a boa from a coat hanger.
Females have been captured, outfitted with radio tags then sent out to
entice the surrounding males during mating season. She’s then recaptured and sent out again the
following year. Sort of a boa “hooker”.
Left
for Homosassa Springs to see more manatees at the state park. The weather was
too warm so most had wandered off to the Gulf.
It’s the old fish story, “you should have been here last week; there
were hundreds!” They also have native wildlife exhibits, except for one very
large hippo named Lou. The previous
owners had an exotic wildlife park on the property and the state was able to
place the other animals in zoos and preserves but found it very difficult to
find a home for a 6,000 lb. hippo. The
school children of Florida petitioned the governor to make him a citizen of
Florida which allowed him to stay.
On
the boat ride to the park entrance we saw two water moccasins swimming in the
water. Our volunteer driver warned us
that should one drop out of the trees; someone should be prepared to drive
because he was jumping overboard.
I
loved driving in central Florida.
Tangles of spreading oaks covered with Spanish moss, tropical plants,
cypress, pines, swamps, canals, rivers & lakes. Am sure once mosquito
season rolled around I’d feel a tad differently but now, it’s beautiful.
Had a “what the” moment when I passed some cattle outside Palatka. Made a U-turn and went back to discover a
portable BBQ place across the road from them.
Best ribs ever…and lots of them.
Stopped along the St. John River on Hwy 13 at a picnic area and feasted (BTW - they're Watusi cattle from Africa)
It’s raining in Jacksonville and up the coast so am cooling my heels and
getting this (and my taxes) done and then will head toward Georgia. Visited the Cummer Museum and Gardens
yesterday. Loved looking at the exhibit
by a Florida artist featuring scenes from the Everglades. It also has a 200 yr. old oak that has made itselt quite at home in the garden. Jacksonville is also
home to the Navy’s Blue Angels. Found
Moccasin Slough, a park near my motel that has designated "old people" exercise stations along a
walking path. Just try standing on one leg
for 15 seconds
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