Monday, February 25, 2013


And now for something completely different.  Gators, crocs and birds…the Everglades has it all.  Went from elv.12,000 ft. in the Rockies to 3 ft. at Rock River Pass.

Drove down from St. Augustine and stayed in Florida City.  The lodge at the Flamingo entrance was taken out by Wilma so it was an 80 mile round trip to the visitor center.  Passed a trail called Snake Bight and made a mental note to avoid that one, only to find myself walking down it after some young fresh-faced ranger talked me into it.  Looked up regularly to see if any of those limbs were moving.  There are the remnants of a canal on one side of the path dug by Henry Flagler’s company.  Thankfully it was a flop as he couldn’t figure out a way to make any money off it or I doubt the Everglades would exist as a park.

They were so much more than I expected.  Went on a ranger led walk that walked us right into the ocean where we used nets to collect sea creatures.  When we’d safely stowed them in containers, he explained what each was and how they fit into the cycle of ocean life.  He wandered out waist deep and came up with a large blue crab.  Would have made a tasty snack but had to be released.  In fact, there’s a $5,000 fine for feeding the animals and it makes good sense when dealing with crocs and gators.  If they came to expect food from an extended hand, what’s to prevent them from making a mistake?

Had a round-about plan for the river ride.  Booked it for the same time as the manatee talk so changed a time for afterwards.  Then realized I’d actually booked the Florida Bay ride so changed it again to the swamp tour.  The reservationist was reluctant, but turned out to be a good sport.  This is the only area where climate conditions permit crocs and gators to live together.  Crocs can’t handle the colder weather while gators can self-regulate their body temps by either staying in the water or sunning themselves on the shore.  Crocs aren’t that smart.  Also got another look at a manatee that was swimming around a catamaran parked at the dock. They’re the friendly giants (up to 6000 lbs.) who have found a sanctuary in the glades.  Lots have been the victims of fatal outboard motor propeller injuries.

Saw several ospry nests in the area.  They mate for life and the VERY considerate males, catch a fish and clean it  and remove it's head before bringing it home to mom. On our boatride,  we happened to catch sight of one  in a shoreline tree. 

There are several walking paths but the most spectacular is a path & boardwalk area called the Anhinga Trail, named after one of the more interesting birds.  It doesn’t have the waxy protection of most water birds so after it spends time in the water, it has to come out, sit on a branch and spread its wings to dry off.  The Trail has some of everything – buzzards, vultures, herons, egrets, turtles, gators, crocs and more.  All living comfortably in an area with people walking thru.  They’ll even crawl up out of the swamp area and rest on the walking paths.  Note the cutie in back of me.  Gators don’t eat in the winter – and when they do begin, it’s every 7-10 days.  Not nearly as scary as their press would have you think.  They’re pretty damn lazy – usually wait for lunch to walk by.

There's also a path that has the most unusual, beautiful tree snails.  One of the rangers showed me a picture he took so I hot-footed it over to see for myself.  Just found one but it was worth it.

Next on the schedule was a trip down the Keys. Unfortunately, I chose a Saturday (the days of the week sorta run together for me) and it was pretty busy with lots of “no vacancy” signs.  Lucked out and found a lovely motel in Marathon run by the friendliest woman, her daughter and even occasionally, her granddaughter.  It even came with a slice of Key Lime Pie. 

Went to the most southern UU church on Sunday and heard a sermon on the Twilight Zone (be open to the unexpected).  That seems to cover the past 6 months for me. Hopped on the rubber-tired choo-choo and saw and listened to the history of Key West.  Besides being a huge art colony (and home to Hemmingway (and his 6-toed cats), Capote and others), there was another story I hadn’t heard.  In the 80’s, the federal government closed Highway 1 looking for illegal immigrants from Cuba and drug smugglers.  It also cut off the lifeline of tourist business to Key West.  The Conch Republic of Key West was formed, seceded from the US, attacked a naval ship with stale Cuban bread, surrendered, then demanded $1billion in war relief and reparations.  The government opened Highway 1 but denied them the cash.


Roosters everywhere!  Thought it was kinda quaint until I showed up early the following morning for my trip to Dry Tortugas and heard the crowing din.

Dry Tortugas is an National Park island 70 miles off the coast of Key West.  It’s a 2 ½ hour ferry ride where I met Cindy Shank, a retired kindergarten teacher from AZ who turned her love of photography into a series of children’s books on the sheep trails in AZ.  One is about the sheep and the others cover the border collies, burros and people on the trail.  She’s considering one on the mules in the Grand Canyon. 

We teamed up to take a tour of the Fort which was built as protection but was never completed and never fired a shot.  It was ultimately used to house Civil War prisoners and experienced a big outbreak of Yellow Fever.  One of the prisoners, Dr. Mudd (who treated John Wilkes Booth) deduced that standing water was a breeding ground for the mosquito spreading the disease.

Also took the plunge and donned my first snorkeling gear. Cindy had done it before but was happy for the company. After getting my fins tangled and falling on my kiester, I decided floating would work best.  It was wonderful.  Not too many fish, but loved floating above the coral.  There’s a picture of me in full regalia but it’s something only my children could love (or maybe not).

 Left the Keys and spent three days in Plantation with a dear friend from home. Felt good to relax, catch up, take morning walks and have some tasty meals within walking distance of her condo.  Took a leisurely afternoon stroll thru the Morikami Japanese Museum and Gardens.  Beautiful setting of sand sculpture, rock & bamboo gardens, ponds and falls. Also saw my first armadillo!

Back in the Everglades.  This time along the southern coast.  Took the Shark Valley tram ride and climbed the observation tower.  Unfortunately, it was raining so headed for the Gulf coast. Passed the country’s smallest post office on the way which serves 3 Florida counties.

Was going to bypass the 10,000 Island center but my curiosity got the best of me and drove down from Ft. Myers. Climbed another tower and also   listened to a ranger talk on the snakes and gators in the Glades.  The boas have gotten a lot of publicity lately.  They’ve been released by owners who bought them as pets only to watch them grow into an unmanageable size.  A fairly unsuccessful hunt was held which netted only about 50, that plus the destruction to the area by hunters who wouldn’t know a boa from a coat hanger.  Females have been captured, outfitted with radio tags then sent out to entice the surrounding males during mating season.  She’s then recaptured and sent out again the following year. Sort of a boa “hooker”. 

 On an intuitive flash, I pulled up the White Pages to see if a friend and former neighbor was still in the home she moved to in the Orlando area almost 30 years ago.  I think she was as surprised to hear from me as I was to find her.  Another lovely break, catching up and relaxing.  Got to see the old downtown Orlando when we lunched in the Church Street area.  

Left for Homosassa Springs to see more manatees at the state park. The weather was too warm so most had wandered off to the Gulf.  It’s the old fish story, “you should have been here last week; there were hundreds!” They also have native wildlife exhibits, except for one very large hippo named Lou.  The previous owners had an exotic wildlife park on the property and the state was able to place the other animals in zoos and preserves but found it very difficult to find a home for a 6,000 lb. hippo.  The school children of Florida petitioned the governor to make him a citizen of Florida which allowed him to stay.

On the boat ride to the park entrance we saw two water moccasins swimming in the water.  Our volunteer driver warned us that should one drop out of the trees; someone should be prepared to drive because he was jumping overboard.  

I loved driving in central Florida.  Tangles of spreading oaks covered with Spanish moss, tropical plants, cypress, pines, swamps, canals, rivers & lakes. Am sure once mosquito season rolled around I’d feel a tad differently but now, it’s beautiful.

Had a “what the” moment when I passed some cattle outside Palatka.  Made a U-turn and went back to discover a portable BBQ place across the road from them.  Best ribs ever…and lots of them.  Stopped along the St. John River on Hwy 13 at a picnic area and feasted (BTW - they're Watusi cattle from Africa)

It’s raining in Jacksonville and up the coast so am cooling my heels and getting this (and my taxes) done and then will head toward Georgia.  Visited the Cummer Museum and Gardens yesterday.  Loved looking at the exhibit by a Florida artist featuring scenes from the Everglades. It also has a 200 yr. old oak that has made itselt quite at home in the garden.  Jacksonville is also home to the Navy’s Blue Angels.  Found Moccasin Slough, a park near my motel that has designated "old people" exercise stations along a walking path.  Just try standing on one leg for 15 seconds












No comments:

Post a Comment