Found another twisty-turny that took me thu the northern part of hill country Tennessee to Knoxville.  Passed by the Norris Dam which was part of the TVA that brought electricity to those small towns I’d passed.  Completed in 1936, it was named for Frank Norris, a senator from Nebraska.

I’d contacted Joy, a friend from Knoxville I’d met on the July Alaskan trip and she generously invited my sister-in-law, Janey and me to stay with her.  Our plan was to spend a couple of days in Knoxville, wander down to Nashville and then on to Memphis.  It became obvious we’d bitten off a bit more than we could handle in the time that Janey was with me so concentrated on the Nashville and Knoxville area.

Janey had contacted a stable owner in Knoxville about riding a horse.  Turned out he not only owned the stable, he boarded and trained show horses and sulky racers.  A woman in her mid-80s and a man darn close to that arrived to give their horses one last trot around the track before their upcoming events in Macon GA.

Tuesday, Janey & I left for a couple of days in Nashville.  A huge mix-up with my online ticket purchase for the Grand Ole Opry left us none for that evening.  On a fluke, I suggested we check with the box office and found there were two available; one was a mezzanine chair and the other standing room.  Snapped them up.

The Opry has become a huge complex with large theater, hotel, & shopping mall.  We found a comfy place to stay on the outskirts and began our Nashville experience.  Didn’t realize the show was a live radio broadcast, complete with commercials.  A great variety of performers including Dierks Bentley, Greg Bates, Lorrie Morgan & Pam Tillis.  Although I know little about the current music, the show was terrific.  Especially an elderly man who played one heck of a mandolin.

The following morning we visited The Hermitage, Andrew Jackson’s home and grounds. He was a study in contradictions – on one hand, the champion of the common man and democracy and on the other, a slave owner and the president responsible for the removal of Indian tribes from their land which became the Trail of Tears.

 Next it was the Country Music Hall of Fame. Great exhibits of the history, music, costumes and artifacts with the bonus of a special Patsy Cline exhibit. Got to re-live some of the old Roy Rogers/Gene Autry movies, see the Webb Pierce car with pistol door handles and beautifully beaded and embroidered performance costumes.  Spent over 2 hours there and if the legs and feet could have held out, could have spent more.

Took a walk down to 2^nd street where there are open bars with live country-western performances all day.  Just walk in, sit down and listen.  Found a group of rag-tag street performers and sat on a stoop and enjoyed.

While Janey & I were soaking up Nashville, our tour guide, Joy, was making plans for our Knoxville visit. Spent two days driving and hiking in the Smokies, including a drive thru Cades Cove, a town dotted with old log homes and churches whose residents were allowed to remain in the park until the original owners died off. Outside of Gatlinburg, we wandered a roadway lined with Appalachian art and craft shops where Janey became smitten with a horse sculpture and I bought a pair of earrings. Met a chatty Eastern transplant who steered us toward a hilltop restaurant for dinner that came with great apple fritters.  Also worked in a

misty Norris Dam river walk among the early emerging wildflowers, a visit to the Appalachian Museum (a collection of pioneer buildings and artifacts, including farm animals)  and a trip to the Oak Ridge museum (where a retired engineer became our personal  guide to the history of the bomb construction and the research facility’s present projects). Ooops.  Almost forgot the Zumba workout at the Y!  The pressure’s on Janey & I to come up with an equally lively experience when Joy visits us.

Dropped Janey off at the airport for her return to NY and I continued on thru Cherokee National Forest and my eventual date with Elvis in Memphis.  Somehow took a wrong turn and Patience & I ended up on a rutted gravel road that followed a lovely river.  Luckily, I was the only one on the road as I needed the entire width to avoid the potholes.  Decided the original route wouldn’t have been nearly as much fun and it was a beautiful way to begin the day. 

Stopped at Shiloh, names for a Methodist meeting house of that name. In addition to watching the film, I took the driving tour of the battlefield which had stops along the way commemorating the different battles.  The back and forth victories between the Grant and Johnson armies was finally settled by the arrival of Union reinforcements who came up the Tennessee River led by General Buell.  This battle secured the railroad lines for the Union and was the beginning of the end for the Confederacy holding the Mississippi Valley. 

The big attraction in Memphis is Elvis-town – Elvis everywhere.  Movies being played in hotel lobby, music coming from shops and exhibits, guitar shaped swimming pool. Glad I began early because the crowds were huge later in the day. Spoke with two sisters from IL who had dragged their 10 year old son/nephew on the tour.  Signed up for the house, plane (2), car and Old Tupelo exhibit.  Was surprised at the size of the home – a nice sized colonial but not overly expansive. Also thought I’d see red velvet but instead the theme was peacock blue, including stained-glass peacocks. The addition of a racquet ball court, turned into a museum, covered his history and included costumes and Pricilla’s wedding dress. Also exhibited were lists (and checks) of the little known donations he made to many individuals and community organizations in the Memphis area. The finale was his gravesite along with his mom and dad, covered with gifts from fans.

Took a short walking tour of downtown Memphis.  Very picturesque with the trolley coming down the middle of the street.  Had to stop by the Peabody to quack at the ducks.  I missed their entrance from the elevator but they were happily splashing around in the huge mid-lobby fountain.

Crossed the Mississippi into Arkansas and noted that the travel center was closed.  Not a good omen.

I headed north to Lexington, KY to meet Jay’s future mother-in-law (and Chandra’s mom) but first a couple of stops along the way.  Drove along the Country Music Highway (Crooked Trail in VA) which honors a number of country western stars from the area with signs dotted along the route.  Passed thru Pikeville, the home of the famous Hatfield/McCoy feud then turned west to stop at Red River Gorge National Geological Area and Natural Bridges State Park.  The Gorge was a favorite camping area of Tim’s when he was at Miami.  Couldn’t help noticing that almost all the road signs had bullet holes or indents in them.  Not a particularly comforting sight.

Found myself a bit directionally-confused so stopped at a combo gas station/diner/grocery/post office and asked for directions.  The youngster behind the counter told me where to go using landmarks e.g. white building, small church, etc.  Very sweet.  A couple of other notes – barns have patchwork designs on them and the speed limit at Natural Arches is 23 MPH.

Stayed at the Hemlock Lodge in the park and took the trail up to the arch.  Was deliberating whether to go to the top when I met a young man who said I’d be sorry if I missed it. He & his wife were celebrating their 25^th anniversary and they’re regular visitors. He was right, quite a view. He also told me about a great pizza place called Miguel’s just outside the park where the grounds are also a huge tent city for hikers.

Tim had told me about a trail that was pretty rough and when I passed a memorial for someone who had fallen off one of the cliffs and died, I hiked on back to the car. Stopped at the ranger station and got a list of “must sees”.  Beautiful rock formations, hiking trails and drives thru the park.  Also learned that most of the accidents are caused by campers who have wandered off the paths, usually at night.  There’s something for everyone – steep climbs, meandering river trails and paths along the cliffs. There’s also an impressive one- lane tunnel built by a logging company in the early 1900’s.

Next stop was the restored Shaker Village at Pleasant Hill.  This religious community came to Kentucky in the early 1800’s to farm and wait for the 2^nd Coming.  Men and women were separated (separate entrances to all the buildings, except the kitchen, which was the women’s domain).  Beautiful stone and brick buildings were built for housing and meetings.  They’re especially known for their music  (“Simple Gifts”), brooms and furniture. Very inventive too – noted a pre-cursed to the Cuisinart in the kitchen.  Got to listen to a choir rehearsing for an upcoming performance to celebrate their spring opening.  Reminded me of gospel. The Shaker name was coined to describe the shaking motions they do during their services. The last member died in 1923 and there are only three left in the New England area.  The Village was bought and restored in the 60’s by a not-for-profit group after it fell in to disrepair.

Went from hill country to horse country.  Beautiful homes on huge acreage. Spent three lovely days in Lexington with Chandra’s mom, Noreen.  The kids said we’d hit it off and they were sooo right. She also gets the good sport award as I showed up with a nasty cold which moved into an ear infection.  A trip to the Kroger walk-in and an ampicillin prescription and I was back among the living.  Noreen took me to Irish Acres, a former boarding school turned into a three story indoor home décor and antique mall.  Individual rooms were beautifully decorated in color-coordinated period furniture and accessories.  Lots of glitter and glitz too with a large selection of Xmas decorations.  All this and a great lunch too.

Our next stop was the Kaneland racetrack.  Although the ponies weren’t running, it was my first time at a track and couldn’t help being impressed by its size.  Surprised to hear it’s only used for racing in April and October. Took a tour of the gift shop and loved the display of women’s fancy hats.

Noreen’s friend, John put me onto a lovely route that would take me to Cumberland Gap.  Passed thru Richmond and saw some unusual and ornately decorated homes. Then it was over to the Daniel Boone National Forest and a drive along the Kentucky River and its contributors.  Beautiful icicle covered rock walls on one side and Katie’s Creek on the other.  That also means it’s 30 degrees.  A bit nippier than I’d hoped for.

The Cumberland Gap’s break in the Appalachians gave eastern settlers a way to cross into Kentucky.  Most famous was the group from PA led by Daniel Boone & his family.  Now you go thru a long tunnel that connects KY with TN. As a precaution, traffic is stopped both ways for tanker trucks that get a DOT escort.   A trip to the top overlook gives you a lovely view of KY, TN and VA.   Met a couple from Ashville (she was a transplant from Barrington) and he talked me into hiking up the side of a narrow waterfall from an old iron furnace ruin up to a cave entrance.  A huff and a puff & I made it!

Also stopped at the Lincoln Museum on the campus of Lincoln Memorial University.  It’s technically in TN – just on the other side of the tunnel.  It was begun by General Howard (of Howard University fame) at the direction of President Lincoln after the Civil War.  Lincoln felt some of hard feelings produced by the war’s divisions within the states might be assuaged by access to education.  Even now, its primary mission is to educate Appalachian children.  According to the person I spoke with, it still faces difficult obstacles. Those in the “hard shell” fundamentalist culture believe education interferes with your relationship with God so it’s discouraged.  This professor also thought it might have been the problem between Abraham Lincoln and his father which led to their estrangement.  It’s an interesting theory.

The museum itself is mostly a collection of paintings, sculptures and artifacts of Lincoln.  I was unaware that after his death on the way to Springfield, his casket was displayed in various cities. Exhibited in the museum is a reproduction of one of those funereal displays.   

More about Tennessee soon  

Well, maybe just a smidge more about South Carolina.  Couldn’t help noticing that the “Promised Land” is just a bit south of Greenwood.  While I’m here, I have to comment on the number of Baptist churches.  There must be one every 1200’ along the highway. Sometimes even more.  There seems to be a bit of tension tho between the messages on the billboards and the lawn signs - You’re either going to hell or God loves you.

Stopped at the Stumphouse Mountain Tunnel and Issaquena Falls near Walhalla, SC.  The tunnel was begun as part of a route between Charleston and Knoxville and then came the Civil War.  The tunnel was never completed but later Clemson used it to cure blue cheese.  The bats were gone – can only assume they joined their friends and relatives in Mexico.  The interesting story tho is, the area was slated to be developed into a gated community but residents and preservation groups banded together, raised the money to buy it and with the help of legislators, it’s now a park maintained by the city.  Beautiful falls and hiking trails for everyone to enjoy.

Now to North Carolina.  I’m in waterfall country!  Before I met my hosts in Hendersonville, I stopped at Upper Whitewater Falls just across the SC state line in Sumter National Park. My hosts, who came from outside Milwaukee, made me feel like one of the family. Becky took me hiking in DuPont Forest where we saw four beautiful falls and Chuck took me to a program at the church which followed US history from the Depression, depicted in various forms of art; including sculpture, political cartoons and photography.  They have a long history of hospitality; they’re the local organizer of the Friendship Force, an organization started by Jimmy Carter to encourage global understanding and friendship thru international homestay exchanges. I ran into a couple from Australia at the Hearst Castle who were also part of this program.

Next, Asheville - The Biltmore was built as George Vanderbilt’s escape from the NYC.  This “little country house” (99 bedrooms and 43 bathrooms) is the largest privately owned home in the US. Four acres of house on 8,000 acres of property. The approach (several miles of forested road) says “get-away”. The grounds (which were once farmland) were designed by Frederick Olmsted (of Central Park fame) and the trees were planted 5 years

before the house was built so they’d be mature at its completion.  Even more interesting to learn, it was built when he was a bachelor and no prospects of marriage. That came a couple of years later. The self-guided walking tour (with recording device) takes you up and down staircases through grand and beautifully decorated rooms.  A perfect rainy day excursion.  Unfortunately, that made the garden tour a bit soggy but the flowers in the greenhouses reminded me of the conservatory in Chicago’s Lincoln Park.

Also took the tour of Asheville.  My host described it as “wonderfully quirky”.  It’s a combination of rehab centers (Zelda Fitzgerald lived and died here, James Taylor was also a guest), art colony, retirement community and colorful history.  Home to Thomas Wolfe, whose book, Look Homeward Angel, based on his life in Asheville, was banned by his home town. Another funny story – drove by a stone mansion built by a psychologist as a surprise for his wife, she surprised him with a divorce.  

Left Hendersonville and Took a lovely ride along the Broad River to Bat Cave with the intention of stopping off at Chimney Rock. Came across a strange roadside display and ended up turning around to take another look.  I’d gotten used to seeing the “blue bottle trees” that captured evil spirits and wondered if this was another form of talisman.  

Chimney Rock had a hefty $19 entrance fee so contented myself for a picture from afar (also, it was a darn steep climb).  Am hoping the NC residents get a break on those rates. Crossed the eastern Continental Divide at 3, 028.  Gives you an idea of how much older the Appalachians are than the Rockies where I crossed at 12,000’.  Driving thru the hill country of NC you can’t help feeling the beauty and the isolation. Lots of Xmas tree farms. They don’t give you a speed limit on curves but the signs say, if you’ve got a truck or trailer, DON’T DO IT! Most of the Blue Ridge Parkway was closed but I did get to sample about a half mile before having to turn back.  Took another mountain road that turned into a dirt one for a while and then back to blacktop.  Found myself on the road to Damascus – VA that is.  Stopped at Mom’s Bakery and got a Nieman Marcus bar which was sugar-infused custard on a cookie crust.  Yummy! Weather wasn’t so good – cold and snowy otherwise would have liked to hike a bit on the Virginia Creeper Trail laid out on an old railroad bed.

Kentucky is next!