Well, maybe just a smidge more about South Carolina.  Couldn’t help noticing that the “Promised Land” is just a bit south of Greenwood.  While I’m here, I have to comment on the number of Baptist churches.  There must be one every 1200’ along the highway. Sometimes even more.  There seems to be a bit of tension tho between the messages on the billboards and the lawn signs - You’re either going to hell or God loves you.

Stopped at the Stumphouse Mountain Tunnel and Issaquena Falls near Walhalla, SC.  The tunnel was begun as part of a route between Charleston and Knoxville and then came the Civil War.  The tunnel was never completed but later Clemson used it to cure blue cheese.  The bats were gone – can only assume they joined their friends and relatives in Mexico.  The interesting story tho is, the area was slated to be developed into a gated community but residents and preservation groups banded together, raised the money to buy it and with the help of legislators, it’s now a park maintained by the city.  Beautiful falls and hiking trails for everyone to enjoy.

Now to North Carolina.  I’m in waterfall country!  Before I met my hosts in Hendersonville, I stopped at Upper Whitewater Falls just across the SC state line in Sumter National Park. My hosts, who came from outside Milwaukee, made me feel like one of the family. Becky took me hiking in DuPont Forest where we saw four beautiful falls and Chuck took me to a program at the church which followed US history from the Depression, depicted in various forms of art; including sculpture, political cartoons and photography.  They have a long history of hospitality; they’re the local organizer of the Friendship Force, an organization started by Jimmy Carter to encourage global understanding and friendship thru international homestay exchanges. I ran into a couple from Australia at the Hearst Castle who were also part of this program.

Next, Asheville - The Biltmore was built as George Vanderbilt’s escape from the NYC.  This “little country house” (99 bedrooms and 43 bathrooms) is the largest privately owned home in the US. Four acres of house on 8,000 acres of property. The approach (several miles of forested road) says “get-away”. The grounds (which were once farmland) were designed by Frederick Olmsted (of Central Park fame) and the trees were planted 5 years

before the house was built so they’d be mature at its completion.  Even more interesting to learn, it was built when he was a bachelor and no prospects of marriage. That came a couple of years later. The self-guided walking tour (with recording device) takes you up and down staircases through grand and beautifully decorated rooms.  A perfect rainy day excursion.  Unfortunately, that made the garden tour a bit soggy but the flowers in the greenhouses reminded me of the conservatory in Chicago’s Lincoln Park.

Also took the tour of Asheville.  My host described it as “wonderfully quirky”.  It’s a combination of rehab centers (Zelda Fitzgerald lived and died here, James Taylor was also a guest), art colony, retirement community and colorful history.  Home to Thomas Wolfe, whose book, Look Homeward Angel, based on his life in Asheville, was banned by his home town. Another funny story – drove by a stone mansion built by a psychologist as a surprise for his wife, she surprised him with a divorce.  

Left Hendersonville and Took a lovely ride along the Broad River to Bat Cave with the intention of stopping off at Chimney Rock. Came across a strange roadside display and ended up turning around to take another look.  I’d gotten used to seeing the “blue bottle trees” that captured evil spirits and wondered if this was another form of talisman.  

Chimney Rock had a hefty $19 entrance fee so contented myself for a picture from afar (also, it was a darn steep climb).  Am hoping the NC residents get a break on those rates. Crossed the eastern Continental Divide at 3, 028.  Gives you an idea of how much older the Appalachians are than the Rockies where I crossed at 12,000’.  Driving thru the hill country of NC you can’t help feeling the beauty and the isolation. Lots of Xmas tree farms. They don’t give you a speed limit on curves but the signs say, if you’ve got a truck or trailer, DON’T DO IT! Most of the Blue Ridge Parkway was closed but I did get to sample about a half mile before having to turn back.  Took another mountain road that turned into a dirt one for a while and then back to blacktop.  Found myself on the road to Damascus – VA that is.  Stopped at Mom’s Bakery and got a Nieman Marcus bar which was sugar-infused custard on a cookie crust.  Yummy! Weather wasn’t so good – cold and snowy otherwise would have liked to hike a bit on the Virginia Creeper Trail laid out on an old railroad bed.

Kentucky is next!