Decided to bypass Branson and took a nice leisurely drive thru one of the many Mark Twain National Forests in MO and landed at the Wilson Creek National Battlefield near Springfield.  Another drive–thru site that began the battle for control of MO. and eventually ended with the divided state remaining under control of the Union.  Bloody Hill was aptly named – 2500 died.  Up to this point I was familiar with many of the eastern sites but this tour has given me an new appreciation of the importance of the control of middle America, especially the states with divided sympathies.

On to Independence to see the Harry Truman home and library.  His is an interesting love story.  He left his job in Kansas City to return home and help his father and brother with the family farm.  While visiting a cousin, he returned a cake plate to the Wallace home across the street and the door was answered by Bess (whom he’d had a crush on since 1^st grade).  The Wallace’s were the moneyed family in town and Harry was considered out of their circle.  Much to Bess’s mother’s consternation, a 9 year courtship began and after several proposal refusals, when Harry returned from WWI, she said “yes” & they were married. Mother-in-law, Madge, never felt Harry worthy of her daughter, even when she lived in the White House with them. 

He was a reluctant candidate for VP and saw FDR only once during his presidency & knew nothing about the bomb construction that was taking place until after Roosevelt died.  When he asked Eleanor if there was anything he could do for her, she replied that it was him that was going to need help.

After returning to Independence (on borrowed train fare), the Truman’s lived a quiet and simple life.  As a welcome home present, friends painted the house white.  A tour of the house shows a kitchen table set for 2 and a nailed down linoleum tile he’d fixed.  He resisted secret service protection until it was thrust upon him (and people began gathering pieces of the house as souvenirs) and was famous for his daily walks to the Truman Library, a mile and a half from the house.

Wandered over to Jefferson City to see the capitol.  Perched on the Missouri River along the Lewis & Clark Trail, it was surrounded by flowering trees and has a beautifully decorated interior dome.  In addition to the state history, there was a walk-thru exhibit of the complicated allegiances of the state during the civil war.

Was excited about seeing Lake of the Ozarks but the reality got in the way of what I’d visualized.  It’s become a huge resort and condo vacation area and found myself anxious to move on.  Another wing of Mark Twain National Forest and an interesting lawn decoration.

Back on the road toward Eminence, MO along the Ozark Scenic Highway which is lined with several hot springs  Stopped at Round Springs and ran into a young couple who were taking a long weekend vacation and they put me onto Ally Springs and Big Springs.  Bright blue hot water gushing out from as far away as 50 miles below the surface.  The latter at 

288 million gallons per day, enough to fill a football stadium. The National Scenic Riverways Act of 1964 protected these areas or most of it would have been dammed up and the springs would have been lost under several feet of water. Stayed at a comfy lodge overlooking the Current River in Van Buren but passed up the Stray Dog Barbecue.  Not an appetizing name for a restaurant.

Headed north toward St. Louis but stopped off at Elephant Rocks State Park for a hike among the huge boulders.  The huge boulders were formed by underground magma and when eroded, looked like a circus train of elephants.

Julia Dent was born in the St. Louis area and when her brother brought home his handsome roommate, Ulysses, from West Point for a visit, sparks were ignited.  Unfortunately, her father had chosen to side with the Confederacy so a video dinner conversation at the park site, simulated an imagined spirited conversation between the father and his future son-in-law. I was the sole visitor on this rainy day for the house and grounds tour and had the most delightful conversation with the young ranger.  She was especially interested in my trip and I, in her decision to work for the park service.

Couldn’t go thru Illinois without stopping off at the Lincoln Museum.  In addition to the artifacts, the holographic presentations are wonderful.  Especially moving is the librarian’s account of a soldier’s experience in the Civil War. I won’t spoil the surprise ending for you.

Went to Ottawa with the intent of hiking Starved Rock but ran into the midst of the terrible flooding along the Illinois River.   One of the entrances was closed and the trails were impassable so I hunkered down in my motel along with a number of local evacuees whose homes were under water.

The return to Chicago was to join the celebration of the wedding of my son, Jay and his fiancée, Chandra.  A wonderful gathering of family and friends from far (Chandra’s brother & family from Kenya and her mom’s best friend from Scotland) and sorta far (LA, San Diego, Lexington, KY and Washington DC).  They planned the entire event which was dominated by outstanding food and family gatherings which  gave us lots of opportunities to get to know each other. The ceremony was officiated by a good friend of the couple who made it personal and very entertaining.

Spent the following  two weeks in the kind and generous care of wonderful friends, Judy in Lincolnshire and Jeanne in Viroqua.  On the trip over to Oshkosh to visit my sister, I reacquainted myself with some of the beauty of WI. More back roads over spring-leafed hills and along the Kickapoo River and a pretty little town I saw for the first time. Will continue the blog when I get back on the road. 

My first stop in AR was Little Rock and a tour of the Clinton Library.  Quite a melding of old and new.  The beautiful modern library structure, situated along the Arkansas River is connected to the old railway station which serves as a workshop for the University of Arkansas Clinton School of Public Service.  The exhibits include the history of his presidency, mementos and gifts, and replicas of the oval office and the cabinet conference room. There were two special exhibits – The Arkansas Travelers (over 100 friends who visited the early primary states to talk to people about “their” governor) and a display of 40s and 50s jazz artists, photographed by Herman Leonard. 

Next stop was Central High School where, in 1957, nine

black students were escorted by armed National Guard troops amid racial slurs and spitting.  Governor Faubus tried to stop the integration by using AR National Guard troops but they were federalized by President Eisenhower.  Quite an expression of extraordinary courage by these young people and hard to believe we behaved so badly.  The history of the event is part of the National Park National Historic Site but the school itself is currently used as a high school with 2600 students.  The ranger put me onto a lunch place (Community Bakery) which had a great portabello mushroom sandwich.

Then it was off to Hot Springs.  Began my visit by climbing to the observation tower to get a good look at the Ozarks.  Hot Springs has quite a colorful history as a wide open town, resort and spa and now, surrounded by a National Park.  They’re in a bit of a tussle with Yosemite as to which was our first National Park.  Hot Springs wasn’t officially a Park but it was designated a Federal National Reservation by President Jackson in 1832. Known for its baths in hot mineral springs (143 degrees), it

became a magnet for healing whatever ailed you.  The baths are still operating and although I

balked at first, the people at the church service I attended, said it was something I didn’t want to miss.  Soooooo, I spent a morning wrapped in a wet sheet.  First was the 20 minute whirlpool bath in an elongated tub in 100 degree water, a 10 minute dip in a sitz bath (much hotter) for lower back and other parts, then a steam cabinet, onto a table where you’re wrapped in hot towels, a needle-spray shower to cool off and topped off with a massage.  By the time I got out, I was so relaxed I wasn’t sure I could drive. 

Headed northwest to Bentonville to see Crystal Bridges but first

 I took a drive thru the AR Grand Canyon with a stop in Jasper, which was recommended by a docent at the Clinton Library.  The drive was misty up top but down in the canyon it was clear and lovely.  Saw a man standing beside his motorcycle and stopped to ask if he was alright.  Said he was “just taking in the peace and quiet”. Took the Hasty Cut-Off and was a bit apprehensive about the bridge on the river I’d have to cross.  No need, as you can see.  The restaurant the docent recommended was closed but it looked like it would have been an unusual visit.

Stumbled upon the War Eagle Mill which is a combo operational grist mill, gift shop, craft store and restaurant.  Got quite a history too –the original owners from TN were flooded out, It was rebuilt and then came the Civil War.  Although the sons joined the Confederacy, it was burned to keep the Union army from using it.  One son fled to Texas, came back to rebuild it, burned again and finally rebuilt by a preservation group that has operated it ever since.  It’s the site of huge craft fairs in May and October.

Got to Crystal Bridges and although it was a rainy week day, the museum had lots of visitors.  Am sorry I didn’t get to walk the grounds, but the exhibits of American artists were varied, beautiful and interesting.  Took a walking tour with one of the docents that highlighted the “Strong Women” collection of women subjects and artists. A bonus was the Norman Rockwell exhibit with a recorded tour by his son and the curator of his works.  On the exiting path, the walls displayed each of his Post covers His son noted he paid the neighbor children $5 to model and his own kids, $1.  

My final stop in AR before moving on to Missouri was the Pea Ridge National Military Park. Hard to believe this beautiful setting was once strewn with almost 24,000 bodies

 It was a lesson in war and egomania.  The Confederate general, Van Dorn, eager for self-aggrandizement, led his weary troops without rest or back-up weaponry into a battle that cleared the way for Grant’s capture of Vicksburg and control of the Mississippi Valley.  He was never trusted again as a leader.

Missouri’s next!