My first stop in AR was Little Rock and a tour of the Clinton Library.  Quite a melding of old and new.  The beautiful modern library structure, situated along the Arkansas River is connected to the old railway station which serves as a workshop for the University of Arkansas Clinton School of Public Service.  The exhibits include the history of his presidency, mementos and gifts, and replicas of the oval office and the cabinet conference room. There were two special exhibits – The Arkansas Travelers (over 100 friends who visited the early primary states to talk to people about “their” governor) and a display of 40s and 50s jazz artists, photographed by Herman Leonard. 

Next stop was Central High School where, in 1957, nine

black students were escorted by armed National Guard troops amid racial slurs and spitting.  Governor Faubus tried to stop the integration by using AR National Guard troops but they were federalized by President Eisenhower.  Quite an expression of extraordinary courage by these young people and hard to believe we behaved so badly.  The history of the event is part of the National Park National Historic Site but the school itself is currently used as a high school with 2600 students.  The ranger put me onto a lunch place (Community Bakery) which had a great portabello mushroom sandwich.

Then it was off to Hot Springs.  Began my visit by climbing to the observation tower to get a good look at the Ozarks.  Hot Springs has quite a colorful history as a wide open town, resort and spa and now, surrounded by a National Park.  They’re in a bit of a tussle with Yosemite as to which was our first National Park.  Hot Springs wasn’t officially a Park but it was designated a Federal National Reservation by President Jackson in 1832. Known for its baths in hot mineral springs (143 degrees), it

became a magnet for healing whatever ailed you.  The baths are still operating and although I

balked at first, the people at the church service I attended, said it was something I didn’t want to miss.  Soooooo, I spent a morning wrapped in a wet sheet.  First was the 20 minute whirlpool bath in an elongated tub in 100 degree water, a 10 minute dip in a sitz bath (much hotter) for lower back and other parts, then a steam cabinet, onto a table where you’re wrapped in hot towels, a needle-spray shower to cool off and topped off with a massage.  By the time I got out, I was so relaxed I wasn’t sure I could drive. 

Headed northwest to Bentonville to see Crystal Bridges but first

 I took a drive thru the AR Grand Canyon with a stop in Jasper, which was recommended by a docent at the Clinton Library.  The drive was misty up top but down in the canyon it was clear and lovely.  Saw a man standing beside his motorcycle and stopped to ask if he was alright.  Said he was “just taking in the peace and quiet”. Took the Hasty Cut-Off and was a bit apprehensive about the bridge on the river I’d have to cross.  No need, as you can see.  The restaurant the docent recommended was closed but it looked like it would have been an unusual visit.

Stumbled upon the War Eagle Mill which is a combo operational grist mill, gift shop, craft store and restaurant.  Got quite a history too –the original owners from TN were flooded out, It was rebuilt and then came the Civil War.  Although the sons joined the Confederacy, it was burned to keep the Union army from using it.  One son fled to Texas, came back to rebuild it, burned again and finally rebuilt by a preservation group that has operated it ever since.  It’s the site of huge craft fairs in May and October.

Got to Crystal Bridges and although it was a rainy week day, the museum had lots of visitors.  Am sorry I didn’t get to walk the grounds, but the exhibits of American artists were varied, beautiful and interesting.  Took a walking tour with one of the docents that highlighted the “Strong Women” collection of women subjects and artists. A bonus was the Norman Rockwell exhibit with a recorded tour by his son and the curator of his works.  On the exiting path, the walls displayed each of his Post covers His son noted he paid the neighbor children $5 to model and his own kids, $1.  

My final stop in AR before moving on to Missouri was the Pea Ridge National Military Park. Hard to believe this beautiful setting was once strewn with almost 24,000 bodies

 It was a lesson in war and egomania.  The Confederate general, Van Dorn, eager for self-aggrandizement, led his weary troops without rest or back-up weaponry into a battle that cleared the way for Grant’s capture of Vicksburg and control of the Mississippi Valley.  He was never trusted again as a leader.

Missouri’s next!