Stopped off in Chancellorsville but the visitor center was closed due to funding cuts but saw the memorial to Stonewall Jackson who died from a wound, accidently inflicted by one of his own men.  Robert E. Lee (and the Confederate cause) never recovered from the loss of Jackson.

 Gettysburg had a huge visitor center and was really crowded.  Had forgotten about the Boy Scout Jamboree at New River Gorge being held that week and I think they were all there.  There’s a great film on Pickett’s Charge, the battle where the loss of Jackson was really felt.  Lee thought that one more victory would seal the war for the South but he miscalculated and the victory went to the Union. Following the film there’s an immense 360 degree cyclorama – more than the length of a football field and 4 stories high. The battle is portrayed with lots of cannon fire and explosions.  Have been to many sites and the description of “who was where” is little hard for me to follow.  This wasn’t.

Over the top of Maryland to Winterthur, the DuPont home (turned museum) in northern Deleware. Henry the Fourth, was put in charge of the family “farm”.  Actually, 5 farms of cows, fields, orchards, and more.  He fell in love with early American furniture and accessories and each of the rooms is done in a different period and region dating from 1630 - 1860.  For example, the former gymnasium has 4, floor to ceiling depictions of different entry facades.  Took his wife and children on a trip to Europe and when they returned, they were surprised with a beautiful new staircase.  A little misty that day but it didn’t stop the volunteer from driving me around the gardens in the tram. The original 2500 acres are now reduced to about 1000 with the 60 acre garden designed by Henry. Not the easiest person to deal with as he was a real stickler for detail in whatever he directed.  Wandered down the western side of the Chesapeake on the Maryland side and crossed over at Annapolis and then on to Washington.

After an extended search for the George Washington Parkway (which took me past Embassy Row and thru Georgetown) I drove down to Mt. Vernon and met up with my Boy Scout friends again. Also spent some time sitting on the back porch (after the house tour) talking to an employee of the National Park Service Heritage Areas.  She told me about the partnerships the Parks have made to assist local communities interested in historical preservation.

Stayed with a gracious and very interesting couple in Arlington. They were in the State Department’s Foreign Service, and lived in several Middle Eastern countries.  What started out as a drive-by of the lighted Washington Monument, turned into a stroll thru the MLK and FDR Memorials.  They lived within walking distance of the metro so took it both days and

hop-skipped around the sights.  My first was a tour of the Capital.  They’ve got quite a process of moving people from the theater to rotunda to statuary hall.  The guide for our group was terrific – pointing out the interesting features and demonstrating the exceptional acoustics.  From there I wandered over to a Tea Party demonstration.  Someone asked me what they were demonstrating against – I said “everything”. 

Over to the National Art Gallery and a beautiful exhibit on the Ballet Russes.  The director, Diaghilev, found he wasn’t much of a performer but an expert at organizing.  Although I know little about ballet you couldn’t help but be fascinated.  Began under Czar Nicholas and when things began to fall apart, moved to Paris. Incredible collection of talent of the time - dancers – Nijinsky & Pavloa, music from Stravinsky, Prokofiev, Debussy, costumes by Matisse, Picasso, & Coco Chanel.  Lots of film clips of the various performances.  Spent a couple of hours there before hiking down the mall to the Aerospace Museum and a show at the planetarium. Beastly hot in DC but museum hopping kept me cool. 

Next day I’m back on the train, this time starting at the White House and moving over to the Vietnam War and Lincoln Memorials. Had lunch at the American Indian Museum – terrific regional food – and listened to a presentation on the variety of ceremonial drum cadences.  Turns out the beat we usually associate with Indians isn’t used by any of them - a Hollywood invention.  As a C-Span junkie, I decided to visit to the Newseum.  It’s a comprehensive history of the news media with headlines, articles, cartoons and film clips.  The feature that day was a film on JFK’s “Thousand Days” plus a panel discussion on the First Amendment.  A survey had just completed, asking Americans about the Bill of Rights.  Turns out very few know the five.  I’ll quiz you later.  Also guests in the audience were high school teachers who commented on the lack of attention to citizenship given in schools. 

Left Washington to head for Williamsburg, stopping off briefly in Richmond to see Monument Drive.  Huge memorials to the Confederate Civil War leaders capped off by a tribute to home town celebrity, Arthur Ashe. 

Arrived in Lexington VA, hoping to celebrate the 4^th there.  Just missed getting a balloon ride at VMI when the skies opened up with sheets of rain. Did, however, stop by the Lee Chapel on the Washington & Lee campus.  Knew very little about what happened to the General after the war and found out he became president of Washington College, originally funded by George .  It was destroyed by General Hunter during the war because it had the misfortune to be situated next to VMI, the southern military school.  Lee was responsible for rebuilding it and expanding its curriculum to include journalism, commerce, law & engineering. Plans were afoot to add astronomy and medicine before he died.  He was very well-liked and respected by both northerners and southerners and received much of the college’s financial support from northern donors.  When his bust sculptor said he prided himself on not working for any northerners, Lee replied, “We’re all Americans, now”.  He (and his family) are interred there.  At his wife’s request, he’s shown resting on the battlefield with his men, not the practice of most generals but something he was known to do. 

Still raining so back on the Parkway and thru the George Washington National Forest.  Arrived in Charlottesville, watched fireworks from my motel and spent the following morning at Montecello. Missed the huge crowd for the annual 4^th of July ceremony swearing-in of our newest citizens. Had heard about the inventiveness of our Declaration of Independence author but seeing them implemented in the house was something else.  There’s a 7 day clock in the foyer facing inside and out that operates on weights.  You can follow the days of the week on the wall.  He ran out of wall so the weights have to drop thru holes drilled in the floor.  Took the skylight idea from his stay in France and incorporated it into several rooms.  No wasted space, his bed is tucked into an arched alcove between his office and bedroom.  Great air circulation and just roll out of bed and you’re ready to work. Met a teacher from Florida who’s traveling solo during the summer on the Harley she bought 6 years ago.  Now that’s an adventurer!

Next, it was Ash-Lawn Hill, home of James Monroe – just down the road from Jefferson’s.    He presided over the “Era of Good Feeling” after the War of 1812 and his Monroe Doctrine served notice to European countries that hands would be slapped if they tried to insert themselves into US holdings. Managed to pick up Florida from the Spanish, too.

Also stopped by the Michie Tavern.  
You can buy a pass that gives you admission into all three and a discount on 2 other sites.  Saw the room where 3 fully clothed travelers would share a bed and got a Colonial dance lesson from our guide.

Crossed back to Staunton to see the Woodrow Wilson birthplace (can’t waste that discount).  He was the son of a minister and our only PhD  president.  Remarkably, there’s evidence he was dyslexic as he wasn’t able to read until he was almost 11 and developed a type of shorthand to take notes.  He did everything possible to stay out of the war but when the Germans began sinking our ships, the gloves came off.  Afterwards, he tried to convince Congress to join the League of Nations in hopes we could talk before getting mired in other conflicts.  Congress said “no” so he went on the road to try and sell it to the people.  Suffered a stroke in Colorado and the rumor was Mrs. Wilson ran things after that.

Back up into the mountains, this time on Skyline Drive.  It’s the northern extension of the Blue Ridge Parkway, but is entirely National Park (with National Park fees)  Haven’t mentioned how valuable my senior park pass has been.  Huge savings.  It was raining pretty hard but there are so many trees it took a while for it to get down to the road.  Seemed strange to be in a downpour but look across the valley and see sunshine.

Next was Harpers Ferry.  Not sure what I expected but whatever it was, didn’t do it justice.  The meeting of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers played a large part in much of our history.  Washington established an arsenal here and Merriweather Lewis stopped off to gather weapons for his trip. And then there was John Brown.  Brown had the right idea but went about it the wrong way. He was a religious zealot and was known to shoot

slave owners then chop them into bits and pieces.  Not a good way to attract people to your point of view.  When he attacked Harpers Ferry, Col. Robert E Lee was called in from Texas to put down the insurrection.  Brown was arrested and hanged but his actions brought  the issue of slavery issue front and center to the nation. Since it was the 2^nd largest ammunition and artillery plant, it became a a punching bag during the Civil War.  It changed hands between 7-11 times and 23,000 people died. There’s a huge area that tells the story of the town battle, some beautifully restored buildings and climbs to breath-taking (literally) views.   It’s a combination National Park, Harpers Ferry Historic Village and part of the Appalachian Trail.

Visited Antietam, the bloodiest one-day battle of the war. Hard to believe this beautiful countryside was the scene of such carnage.

On the way to Montpelier, Patience stopped off for her 40,000 mile check-up & pronounced fit to continue the journey.  Montpelier was home of the person most responsible for our Constitution, James Madison.  In opposition to the prevailing biblical-based education style, Madison’s teachers were products of the Enlightenment.  He was a quiet but dedicated student, mastering 7 languages.  The Articles of Confederation weren’t doing the job and a constitutional convention was called.  Only 2 state representatives showed up so Madison tucked himself away in his home library the following year and studied every resource he could find on self-government.  The following year, he called another convention and convinced George Washington to be the guest of honor.  Everyone attended and Madison presented his work, which included the 3 branches of government and the Bill of Rights..  Can’t leave Madison without mentioning Dolly.  As I said, he was quiet and shy but she was the networking politician.  When he ran for president, his opponent said he could have beaten Mr. Madison but not Mr. & Mrs. Madison.

More Virginia, Maryland, Delaware & DC to come.

  

Took the southern route across VA from Chesapeake past the Great Dismal Swamp. Got some good advice from the good folks in Sebrell.  I think I said before, I’m driving quite a bit differently than you’d expect from my past reputation.  First, I don’t want to miss anything.  I drive with the probability I may never pass this way again. Another consideration is, unlike me, I figure most people I meet know where they’re going.  And finally, I’ve got out of state plates. Although both my encounters with local police have been positive, I don’t want to push my luck.  The road went thru rolling tree-lined countryside plus a lovely surprise of a huge water lily pond in a swampy area.  Drove by Ft. Pickett – first time I’d seen a sign for a tank crossing.  Gabby (my GPS) has gotten into the spirit of it. The back roads of VA can be a little confusing but she’s found some beauties.  

My first stop was Appomattox.  The Union victory of the battle for the railroad lines was culminated in the surrender signing at General McLean’s home.  I’m never disappointed when I stop at the National Park sites. This one was particularly moving.  A ranger portraying a young soldier from the PA infantry at the time, gave a very moving account of the battle, the surrender and his desire to return to his family. Have to admit that tears welled up when he spoke of hearing the news that Lincoln had been killed and his hopes that Andrew Johnson would continue the path toward reconciliation. There were no “high-five” celebrations over the defeat. Instead, there was relief and mutual respect.  Grant didn’t demand Lee’s sword and all Confederates were given passes and their horses to return home, an acknowledgement of the price each side had paid. It’s not the same town tho – the crumbled buildings and those destroyed by fire have been completely rebuilt to the specifications of the original. 

Went on to Red Hill the home of Patrick Henry.  Although I arrived 15 minutes before closing, the delightful woman in charge told me to take as long as I wanted to tour the grounds.  She was in no hurry to leave and would lock up the buildings (which were all self-guided) when I left.  Although a passionate believer in the Revolution “Give me Liberty”, Henry was a reluctant signer of the Constitution – agreeing only to do so after the Bill of Rights was added.

Another ride on the Blue Ridge Pkwy, this time heading south toward my wanderings in West Virginia. Saw my first bear – a black one crossed the road right in front of me. Was so excited I forgot to reach for my camera.  The ranger at the visitor center said it was the first sighting this year. Got to see some rhododendrons too.  Not the profusion I was hoping for but lovely to see them flowering wild along the roadside.

Found a twisty-turny from Blacksburg (home of Virginia Tech).  Lovely mountain roads led me to the New River Gorge National Park in West Virginia. This area was pretty isolated until the 2^nd largest single arch bridge was built over the gorge. Senator Byrd is given credit for bringing home the road funding for this state. It’s 53 miles of river protected by the National Forest Service since 1978. The area’s newest source of revenue is tourism with lots of rafters and kayakers taking advantage of the beautiful river ride. The ranger gave me a CD to take along on the old river road which took over a half hour to traverse, in comparison to the 45 seconds to cross the bridge. 

Stopped by the now deserted town of Thurmond which once was large and a major stop along the C & O railroad.  Another one lane road they dressed up with a center line, then finally gave up. Good news was, there were very few contestants vying for any part of it. Amazing, there are still trains running thru it; 3 each week between Chicago and New York.  

Took Hwy 39 up to Charleston – a beautiful drive with the Kanawna river on one side of me and rock formations on the other. Saw a string of floats across the river near Gauly Bridge and wondered why it was there.  A bit further on and I had my answer - Gauly Falls.  Not so good for canoeing.  Stopped to admire them and met a local woman and her son who was visiting from Texas.  She said not to miss Hawks Nest so put that on my list.

On to Charleston and a tour of the capital.  It has a beautiful dome with golden symbols (which no one seems to know the meaning of) and a terrific walk-thru history museum across the courtyard.  WV was settled by people cultivating small farms and had little in common with the large plantation- owners to the east.  In addition, the mountain range made it nearly impossible to keep in contact with the happenings there.  The Civil War opened an opportunity to become their own state when VA sided with the Confederacy and the western part of the state with the Union.  There’s a “Lincoln at Midnight” sculpture showing him pondering the decision and eventually granting the request.  Mining became the main industry and the injustices that came along with it – life-threatening working conditions, over-priced company towns using script as wages, etc. Underground mining remains one of the more dangerous and unhealthy occupations and a walk thru a recreated mine tells the story. Also on the museum walls was a beautiful quilt exhibit. Fascinating designs and lovely colors.

Took a different route back to VA and stopped off at Cathedral Falls in Glen Ferris, situated right beside the road. Also stopped by Hawks Nest to get of shot of the most common WV brochure picture – looking down thru the New River Valley, which includes a railroad trestle. It  also takes the prize for most interesting restroom facility. 

Passed by an interesting rock formation called a miniature anticline made of Tuscarora sand.  I’d seen arch formations before but none like this folding of rock. Appalachians were formed when the African continent crashed into us.  They’re much different from the Rockies – only about 4,000 ft to the Rockies 12,000 and beautiful in a lush, green way.

Went north thru the Mononghela National Forest and a mom and fawn strolled across the road.  The fawn stood in the middle of the road for a while with the anxious mom waited on the side. Another reason to move slowly.  Started out on a hike to a waterfall but only got to the middle falls as there was a 7-8 story caged stairway down to the final one.  Could only think what it would have been like to climb back up. Feasted on fried green tomatoes at Mammsy’s Skillet along the Greenbrier River.

Back up on the Blue Ridge Parkway to find a 4^th of July celebration.  Pretty rainy and foggy – but lovely driving.  Feel pretty sorry for the folks on the motorcycles, tho.