Took the southern route across VA from Chesapeake past the Great Dismal Swamp. Got some good advice from the good folks in Sebrell.  I think I said before, I’m driving quite a bit differently than you’d expect from my past reputation.  First, I don’t want to miss anything.  I drive with the probability I may never pass this way again. Another consideration is, unlike me, I figure most people I meet know where they’re going.  And finally, I’ve got out of state plates. Although both my encounters with local police have been positive, I don’t want to push my luck.  The road went thru rolling tree-lined countryside plus a lovely surprise of a huge water lily pond in a swampy area.  Drove by Ft. Pickett – first time I’d seen a sign for a tank crossing.  Gabby (my GPS) has gotten into the spirit of it. The back roads of VA can be a little confusing but she’s found some beauties.  

My first stop was Appomattox.  The Union victory of the battle for the railroad lines was culminated in the surrender signing at General McLean’s home.  I’m never disappointed when I stop at the National Park sites. This one was particularly moving.  A ranger portraying a young soldier from the PA infantry at the time, gave a very moving account of the battle, the surrender and his desire to return to his family. Have to admit that tears welled up when he spoke of hearing the news that Lincoln had been killed and his hopes that Andrew Johnson would continue the path toward reconciliation. There were no “high-five” celebrations over the defeat. Instead, there was relief and mutual respect.  Grant didn’t demand Lee’s sword and all Confederates were given passes and their horses to return home, an acknowledgement of the price each side had paid. It’s not the same town tho – the crumbled buildings and those destroyed by fire have been completely rebuilt to the specifications of the original. 

Went on to Red Hill the home of Patrick Henry.  Although I arrived 15 minutes before closing, the delightful woman in charge told me to take as long as I wanted to tour the grounds.  She was in no hurry to leave and would lock up the buildings (which were all self-guided) when I left.  Although a passionate believer in the Revolution “Give me Liberty”, Henry was a reluctant signer of the Constitution – agreeing only to do so after the Bill of Rights was added.

Another ride on the Blue Ridge Pkwy, this time heading south toward my wanderings in West Virginia. Saw my first bear – a black one crossed the road right in front of me. Was so excited I forgot to reach for my camera.  The ranger at the visitor center said it was the first sighting this year. Got to see some rhododendrons too.  Not the profusion I was hoping for but lovely to see them flowering wild along the roadside.

Found a twisty-turny from Blacksburg (home of Virginia Tech).  Lovely mountain roads led me to the New River Gorge National Park in West Virginia. This area was pretty isolated until the 2^nd largest single arch bridge was built over the gorge. Senator Byrd is given credit for bringing home the road funding for this state. It’s 53 miles of river protected by the National Forest Service since 1978. The area’s newest source of revenue is tourism with lots of rafters and kayakers taking advantage of the beautiful river ride. The ranger gave me a CD to take along on the old river road which took over a half hour to traverse, in comparison to the 45 seconds to cross the bridge. 

Stopped by the now deserted town of Thurmond which once was large and a major stop along the C & O railroad.  Another one lane road they dressed up with a center line, then finally gave up. Good news was, there were very few contestants vying for any part of it. Amazing, there are still trains running thru it; 3 each week between Chicago and New York.  

Took Hwy 39 up to Charleston – a beautiful drive with the Kanawna river on one side of me and rock formations on the other. Saw a string of floats across the river near Gauly Bridge and wondered why it was there.  A bit further on and I had my answer - Gauly Falls.  Not so good for canoeing.  Stopped to admire them and met a local woman and her son who was visiting from Texas.  She said not to miss Hawks Nest so put that on my list.

On to Charleston and a tour of the capital.  It has a beautiful dome with golden symbols (which no one seems to know the meaning of) and a terrific walk-thru history museum across the courtyard.  WV was settled by people cultivating small farms and had little in common with the large plantation- owners to the east.  In addition, the mountain range made it nearly impossible to keep in contact with the happenings there.  The Civil War opened an opportunity to become their own state when VA sided with the Confederacy and the western part of the state with the Union.  There’s a “Lincoln at Midnight” sculpture showing him pondering the decision and eventually granting the request.  Mining became the main industry and the injustices that came along with it – life-threatening working conditions, over-priced company towns using script as wages, etc. Underground mining remains one of the more dangerous and unhealthy occupations and a walk thru a recreated mine tells the story. Also on the museum walls was a beautiful quilt exhibit. Fascinating designs and lovely colors.

Took a different route back to VA and stopped off at Cathedral Falls in Glen Ferris, situated right beside the road. Also stopped by Hawks Nest to get of shot of the most common WV brochure picture – looking down thru the New River Valley, which includes a railroad trestle. It  also takes the prize for most interesting restroom facility. 

Passed by an interesting rock formation called a miniature anticline made of Tuscarora sand.  I’d seen arch formations before but none like this folding of rock. Appalachians were formed when the African continent crashed into us.  They’re much different from the Rockies – only about 4,000 ft to the Rockies 12,000 and beautiful in a lush, green way.

Went north thru the Mononghela National Forest and a mom and fawn strolled across the road.  The fawn stood in the middle of the road for a while with the anxious mom waited on the side. Another reason to move slowly.  Started out on a hike to a waterfall but only got to the middle falls as there was a 7-8 story caged stairway down to the final one.  Could only think what it would have been like to climb back up. Feasted on fried green tomatoes at Mammsy’s Skillet along the Greenbrier River.

Back up on the Blue Ridge Parkway to find a 4^th of July celebration.  Pretty rainy and foggy – but lovely driving.  Feel pretty sorry for the folks on the motorcycles, tho.