Saturday, September 7, 2013

From the White Mountains of NH to the Green Mountains of Vermont.  There are large National Forests in both states and also a scattering of beautiful State Parks.  I had to choose which I wanted to visit as my National Park pass doesn’t cover the state entry fee so park sampling would have really run up the tab.  Most are destination sites for camping and hiking - for longer vacations or a weekend  trip.  Although recreation activities are available for all seasons, couldn’t help noticing that Vermont mountain areas seemed to advertise more winter skiing while NH focused more on summer activities.  In fact, Middlebury College has their own Snow Bowl ski area as well as a mountain top campus.  

Someone told me the NE interstates have outstanding views and I’m sure they’re right but am also sure you won’t be able to get these shots whizzing along at 60-70 MPH.



My kind hosts divide their time between PA and a lovely wooded, black-eyed Susan infused summer retreat in Guilford, VT.  Brattlesboro’s a very active and eclectic community.  I spent much of an afternoon watching dance classes at an ABENE African Dance and Drum Festival. Incredible energy put into the moves by the 25 or so participants. 
Was exhausted just watching.  Also dropped in at the local art museum where they were exhibiting Red Groom creations. The very clever and comical constructions included a circus elephant and a NYC bus you could board, complete with very strange passengers. Joined my hosts for the movie Northern Borders, directed by a professor at Marlboro College.  The project made use of the help and talents of students from a variety of New England colleges.  The director was there for the introduction and when the sound system failed, we were treated to extended opening remarks that included stories about the production and his experiences growing up in northern Vermont.

Some practical joker told me about alternate ride over to Hwy 100, the scenic ride through the Green Mountains, but he neglected to tell me it was a rutted, gravel road.  Lovely scenery through the hilly woods but took a while to navigate onto a paved road

Spent a day in Montpelier and wandered around the downtown area and capital building.  Sadly, the museum next door was closed and wouldn’t reopen until 11:00 the following day so missed out on getting the VT story.  Noted the wall portraits of the past governors and all were dressed in suits except for Howard Dean. He’s seated on a rock beside a lake wearing jeans, shirt & hiking boots. 

Back on Route 100 and the mountains through the Appalachian Gap. Stopped to take in the beautiful views of the lakes and valleys.






Couldn’t leave VT without a stop at Ben & Jerry’s.  Had a terrific
tour guide who impressed upon us the quality of the ingredients, including the monkeys in Chunky Monkey.  The two good friends had no idea what they were going to do when they graduated – pizza equipment was too expensive so they took a $5.00 online ice cream making class and split the tuition.  Opened up in a renovated gas station in Burlington VT because there was a college and no ice cream shop.  Very well known for their social justice, environmental and fair trade activism.  Their latest project is “Get the Dough Out of Politics.(getthedoughout.org)

Took a ride over the northern edge of Vermont to the Lake Champlain area along the Canadian border.  Took a breather at the Missisquoi Wildlife Refuge and found a spot to sit along the river.  Met a former ranger who had been kayaking through the channels.  She’s from the Hudson Valley area and spends weekends finding a place to “put in”.  Has a map with pins in it, marking all the places she’d been.

Unfortunately, the weather for my drive along Lake Champlain was a bit drizzly but nevertheless a lovely rambling of ins and outs along the shoreline.  This is where “Vert Mont” (Green Mountains) began with the explorations of Samuel de Champlain.  Will be heading this way again when I cover northern New York so am hopeful the weather will be better then

Landed in college-town Burlington – home to UVM (there’s that Vert Mont), Champlain, St. Michaels, Burlington and probably others. Has a lovely waterfront park that’s home to the ECHO Lake Aquarium.  Watched a “feed the eel” demonstration and wandered around the exhibits.  My host and her husband had hopped in a camper and did a year of volunteer work and traveling – 7 months in New Orleans after Katrina before coming to Burlington.

Some people (like Electra’s mother) collect art, maybe frogs or plates.  Electra Webb collected big things – a covered bridge,  lighthouse, 200’ river paddle-boat, among other things.  Her mother, Louisianne Vanderbilt Havemeyer, began a close friendship with Mary Cassatt when she visited France as a young woman.  Mary introduced her to the Impressionists when they were considered out of favor and Louisianne eventually bought thousands of artwork.  Her daughter, Electra, inherited her collection “bug” and began her own amassment of close to 50 exhibits and buildings which are displayed at the Shelburne Museum near Burlington. 

I went to the Wyeth exhibit and then took a tour of the boat, the Ticonderoga.  The 900 ton ship was brought from the lake via railroad tracks (sorta like the Cape Hetaeras Lighthouse).  It’s been completely restored to its former grandeur as the passenger liner.  Our tour guide took us for a thorough tour from the fancy deck to the engine room.  Learned it was the pilot who drove it, with instructions from the captain.  

Also visited the Memorial building Electra’s children built to house the reproduction of 6 rooms
of her 18 room Park Avenue New York apartment.  The shell of the house is that of a Vermont house Electra had admired but the rooms are furnished with the original furniture and most impressively, the paintings.  She donated 2000 to the museum in NY and the paintings in the house are some of those her children kept.  A large collection of Monet, Cassatt, Degas, Renoir and others decorate the walls of this memorial.



Her playful side shows up in the 525’ circus parade housed in a horseshoe shaped building.  The scale of the figures is 1” for 1’ that ends with the big top display.  There’s also a collection of merry-go-round horses and other carousel animals




Heading back to eastern Vermont to see the long National Park honoring conservationists Marsh, Billings & Rockefeller.  

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