A brief stopover in Manchester, New Hampshire, then hustled on up to Portland, ME to pick up my sister-in-law, Janey, from the airport.  She’s always wanted to see New England so we’ve chosen a chunk of Maine to do a week of sight-seeing. Decided to concentrate our travels in the Camden/Rockport/Rockland area and then move on down to Boothbay Harbor for the end. Spent our first three nights in Lincolnville in cabins owned by a woman from Bloomington, IL who bought the property when it went into bankruptcy.  Fixed it up and she now spends her summers in Maine.  

Stopped off at the Audubon’s Puffin Project Information Center in Rockland to see a film on the re-introduction of the puffins to Eastern Egg Rock Island.  In addition to the insecticides, birds took a real beating at the turn of the 19^th century when the decoration of women’s hats included lots of feathers and even the entire bird perched on their heads. Unlike the CA condors, puffins imprint on the place rather than the parents so chicks were moved from other islands to Eastern Egg where they eventually returned as adults.

From 10” birds to elephants.  A vet has begun a refuge for retired circus elephants, complete

with hydro-massage therapy and stretching exercises.  Opal and Rosie are the first residents of the preserve.  We watched as they reached in all directions to kick a suspended ball and find strategically placed treats with their trunks. Their indoor accommodations also includes a radiant heated sand floor.  Good for aching leg joints.  Had to remove the caps from the pipe ends of their pen because Rosie would unscrew them and use them as hockey pucks.

Our $1.50 senior fee got us a ride up to Mount Battie in nearyby Camden State Park. Beautiful view of Penobscot Bay and Camden. Also visited a farm where the “oreo” beef cattle are raised.  Our cabin hostess also had a grill available so we decided to buy a steak and cook dinner that night.  Tasty. 

From there we stopped at Merryspring Nature Center founded by mail-order plant owner, Mary Ellen Ross. The criss-crossing trails pass through flower gardens, a meadow and wooded area. Found out they were having a fundraiser the following day which included a tour of eight local kitchens featuring snacks provided by chefs from local restaurants. Signed us up.

The tour included eight homes, beginning with one built in the 1780’s and covered three towns.  We started at the northernmost one which has been home to a family for eight generations.  Homes came from all periods and styles, among them, an 1880 farmhouse, Federalist, a renovated barn, and a contemporary Maine “cottage” (a huge understatement).  Treats ranged from brunch items (mini-mushroom quesadilla) to appetizers (caprezi crostini with marinated steak) and afternoon desserts (mini-chocolate cake and macaroons). 

Between kitchen stops, we dropped in at the Camden library garden designed by Frederick Olmsted (to honor local resident, Edna St. Vincent Millay) and heard a few numbers by a local folk singer. The garden includes a three tiered circular outdoor stone amphitheater where regular entertainment is held.  Camden was also made infamous as the TV site of Payton Place.

Took a hike out to the nearly mile-long sea wall to the lighthouse perched at the end. The wall is made of huge blocks of granite, not all of which are lined up flush with each other.  Took a bit of ginger-stepping to keep from sticking your foot into one of the larger crevices.

Began our trek down the coast toward Boothbay Harbor but first visited the Farnsworth Art Museum which features artists who have a connection to Maine. Am glad we came after we’d had a chance to explore some of the landscape and appreciate some of the beauty they saw. They’re especially famous for the Wyeth collections – NC (father), Andrew and Jamie.  A tour guide explained the egg tempra method Andrew used and the stories about the warm connections he had to his subjects, who were local residents. NC was famous as an illustrator, a more “directed” art form and may have been a bit envious of his son’s freedom to choose his subjects and style.  

Stopped at New Harbor and signed up for the puffin boat ride over to East Egg Rock. Had some time to kill before it left so took a hike along the La Verna trail over to the bay.  Turned out to be a bit longer than expected (with exposed tree-roots that called for watching where you stepped), but it was a lovely wandering through a woods that ended at the bay, lined with huge boulders.

The evening puffin ride to the island was led by an Audubon guide who pointed out the puffins and other types of birds found on the island.  It’s only human inhabitants are biologists who record information about the puffins and keep the other scavengers from killing the chicks.  The gulls are especially predatory (the main reason they were able to rebound nicely from the hat-fashion craze). Puffins are pretty small and fly really fast so puffin spotting is a bit tricky. Binoculars were available to catch a closer look but using them had the added side-effect of making one’s tummy a little queasy in the rough waters. 

Thankfully, Gaby (GPS) was on board or we never would have found our hotel that evening.  Maine has so many twists and turns to get you to your destination and at night it can be quite daunting.  We woke, however to a lovely (albeit rainy) bay view.

Our rainy day outing included the Maine State Aquarium where we heard all about lobsters. Didn’t realize they also come in blue.  Maine,(after overfishing all but eliminated the cod population) recognized the necessity for setting regulations on the lobster fishing in order to keep the industry viable.  Only a certain number of licenses and traps are permitted.  Also, the size and sex of the lobster are considered. Females with eggs attached must be tossed back as well as small and very large ones (both male and female). If a female with eggs is found, her tail is notched as a sign to other fisherman she has to be returned to the sea.  Lobsters, it turns out, are their own worst enemy.  Their claws are banded not only to keep them from pinching but also from eating each other. Guess a family gathering is out of the question.

The soft rain didn’t keep us from hoisting the umbrellas and strolling thru the Coastal Botanic Garden.  I asked if my Chicago Botanic Garden pass would be accepted and a voice from the sidelines said it would.  In fact, she volunteered there when she left Maine.  Small world.  There’s a beautiful “orchid” sculpture in the middle of the floral garden and a lovely walk down to the meditation garden which is situated along the shoreline. Started to rain a bit harder so we headed back and hunkered down in a hotel with a Jacuzzi and a $20 whole lobster dinner.

One last walk along the coast and lunch in Portland before taking Janey to catch her flight back to New York.  I made a U-turn and headed back up north toward Acadia National Park.